Hey did the radio ever work in the MX-3.?
A few of the radio's that came in the AZ-3's have been sold on the net as replacements. or have been known to be mixed up in the factory, unless your car was brought into the country as a grey import.
The main difference with the two radio's was the frequency band was very different… meaning that the Japan likes to be unique. So, the Japanese government mandated that Japanese FM operate from 76MHz to 90MHz. Which is, of course, different from most of the rest of the world, which operates from 88MHz to 108MHz. Because of this difference, a converter is necessary to make the FM tuners of Japanese Domestic Market car stereos work outside of Japan.
They aren't hard to get, or expensive... ;-)
Conversion chart for frequencies (you gotta decide which one best suits the stations you wanna listen to the most.)
FM Conversion Table
Japanese Frequency Range: 76.0MHz to 90.0MHz
Converted Frequency Range w/ 12MHz converter: 88.0MHz to 102.0MHz
Converted Frequency Range w/ 14MHz converter: 90.0MHz to 104.0MHz
Converted Frequency Range w/ 16MHz converter: 92.0MHz to 106.0Mhz
Converted Frequency Range w/ 18MHz converter: 94.0Mhz to 108.0Mhz
Hope this helps.
First thought that comes to mind would be to have a very good look around the induction pipe the one between the tb and maf…, take it off and give it a through going over looking for splits or hole in it..this is a common prob with the mx and usually indicates poor running and idle..
If thats ok then take a look at your icv it under the tb this can get clogged or dirty and cause an idle issue... also take a look at the cts (coolant temp sensor) this can display the same issues of rough running and idle...
Hope this helps keep us updated...
I have LED's all round in my lexus lights, they look great only fault I have found is the brake light is a little dim compared to standard.
If you are fitting in standard lights dont bother they dont work so well in them
This is a strange one now, the car cut out again this morning once I had given it it's usual 20 minute wake up in the yard, I then had to jump it using the Pug again and it was fine again. On my break at work I investigated and cleaned the terminals and doused the alternator in AC-90 (the car started up fine at 10am and again at 1pm and also at 3.30pm).
I drove to the garage I use and he checked the alternator was giving out enough power and it came up with a perfect reading, he checked for any obvious wires and nothing.
He suggested replacing the dizzy and if that doesn't help, work on from there, so I'm relieved in one way but confused (like my mechanic was) as to why it will start up first thing, run for 20 minutes and then after I have moved it won't start up, he could understand it with the old battery but not a fresh one. I think I need to get Bert a big fluffy blanket!
could just buy this and then not worry about your battery…
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MIRRLEES-BLACKSTONE-2-4MW-DIESEL-GENERATOR-/350353687524?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Tools_Generators_ET&hash=item5192b503e4
The alternator alone is 8900kg
@924703f9d7=Mike:
I've got "north american lights" on mine, or j-spec.
mine came with the fogs in the centre two of the rear lights.
Mike, I've never heard of an OEM set with dual rear foglights besides the custom ones I have made combining a LHD and RHD set.
Unless someone custom wired it into the blank side which on your car would be the left rear light… One way you can tell if it is a real rear fog light is to take the housing out to see if it has an extra silver piece that enhances the brightness...
projectors are awesome, if i was still insured on my bike Id show you, they have a cut off plate so they dont blind oncoming drivers, so they also dont light up signs too much until you put them on full beam, and then its like driving with stadium floodlights, guessing your HID kit is the crappy illegal variety dj?
hehe, 1 year and 1 day exactly between revival, date looked fine, never looked at the year :) was interested to know what the problem was cos it sounds very bizarre. Oh well.
You need an amp wiring kit and a reasonable amp, if its 300w Sub I would suggest 200w amp so you dont spank the life out of it and if its just a single sub you will need a bridgeable amp.
Bridgeable means you can cross wire it so it puts the full wattage out through just one channel, it can damage some amps that are standard 2 channel and you are only using one channel on it.
Just PM if you need any help with it as I used to do stereos and alarms back in the 90's :roll:
yeah mine were always pretty dim. I couldnt see any difference when driving with lights on so i just used to leave mine on because i think it looked cool lol