bummer. suppose you could take the entire unit off and do them in doors. during x mas breaks. been foged up here today 1st time to test new rear light out with fog on. omg its like a 747 landing light. think will have a crack and a front fog conversion at time of body kit,
Mine wasn't an alarm, just central locking with closure. But it wasn't simple and you'd need to buy some extra bits:
extra actuator (MX-3 is only half-central locking as stock)
2X SPCO (Single Pole Change Over) 20A 12V relays for window closure
1X SPCO or SPNO (Normally Open) 20A 12V relay for boot release solenoid
1X Boot release solenoid
Don't go cheap on the solenoid and actuator. My actuator had been sitting in the door for god know how long after someone's failed attempt at it and now I need to grease the rods cos it's not strong enough. My solenoid was cheap and did not come with a tube for the cord (had to be mounted in the direction that it had to pull) and also isn't really strong enough.
When I stop the engine of the car, they're both strong enough to pop locks and boot but when it's sat for more than about 5 hours, they fail. (due to battery voltage settling back to ~12V I think)
sounds like it could be the earth on ur battery
had he same problem wit me 06
make sure ou did all he bolts up tight an the grond wire is properly eatherd wen u did the battery
@62a3ced09d=hypnoticstoat:
Yeah, It might have helped if I put that. I'll get my tape measure out tomorrow and find out for you. Cant do it now because its raining :roll:
Ever heard of an umbrella? :lol:
Thats cool mate no rush for them.
Just to add - I know it sounds like it should be electrical (and could well be) but do try cleaning the tracks and making sure there is no slight twist in the mechanism. Mine seemed ok but I spent 15 mins clearing them with a rag on a screwdriver with Mr Sheen, been fine for the last 5 years!
further problems??
i just just checked my sony book and it also said this is ok as got total protection. it allows all settings to be kept. also just ordered an ice battery for boot which has build in led's
@ea7c91a030=Guy:
Hi
Can anyone tell me what the 'heat' light means? It's the top light on the LHS of the facia of my 1994 1.5i jap import. I have had the car 6 years and (some how!) never noticed it before. Problem now is its staying on and I'm not used to seeing this on anythign other than a diesel - I can take the bulb out but wish to find out what the light refers to first.
In Ireland the import owners need to stick together - this site is great - MADZA in Galway are incredicbly rude to anyone that didn't directly give them their business. Never seen this from a dealer before.
cheers
Guy
The heat light is only on imports. I don't have an exact answer for you. But it's one of two things. Some say it's a 3rd O2 sensor (if you have a V6, or 2nd if 4cyl), some says it's not. Other suggestions have been a heater to prewarm the cat. Japanese emissions laws are a lot stricter than ours.
Pull the engine codes and see if you have an O2 sensor out, replace, reset the ecu and take the car for a nice long drive… about 30 miles, give it some stick. See if the heat light comes back, or if it's still there all the time.
If it's still there, I think you need to replace the cat, but you can't fit a UK spec one... and finding an import one can be hard.
Here's a list of cats, but I do not know which one is for an import MX3 as they only list the 1.6 4cyl and 1.8 V6
http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/cat_display.php?txtmodel=MX3&Submit=Next&txtmake=MAZDA
the first wire i connected it to was actually the wire it was designed to run on when the relay activated, i thought it may be too high a current so i changed it to a less powerful one. but i thought it may be the earth as wire can sometimes get hot if the earth isn't sufficient, but i've noticed it happens at the same engine speed, which is leading me to think maybe the fuel pump has a relay or equivalent built in. so when the engine speed gets high more power changes, or it swiches circuits, maybe to increase power to the fuel :?
i've googled it and noticed a few people have come across my initial problem of the wire burning out, or fuel pump not kicking in and they think its a relay etc, but no ones figured it and got a solution :?
I had similar problems with my alarm, a scorpion one, it was a flat battery the first time, then the range got increasingly short even after replacing the battery, then the light was always on, on the fob, and i couldn't disarm the imobiliser or turn the alarm off, even sat in the car with te key in the ignition pressing the dfisarm button! in the end i just disconnected the car battery and ripped out the alarm 8)
arr is that what it is?? yer i was thinking it might be a mazda made bomb, or maybe an aircraft black box for when someone crashes the car.
I think i'll keep it on though, i took it of my old 323 and the braking was terrible, i was scared to brake when i knew the car was capable of stopping because it just locked up :?