@99c64d220d=nexussteve:
Not sure if this would work, as I haven't looked into it, but:
Can't you get import dials, then get a KPH to MPH converter?
That way you'd go up to 180? :p
lol funky :P
found the mx3 mounting points and there in differnt places
@6698919389=djmarcopolo:
A woman I know sold her 53 plate vauxhall corsa to them for £900 so she could pay her credit card bill.
No wonder he's dancing all the time !!!
Yea no wonder he's dancing. She must have been desperate to let it go to them for that. Easily worth alot more.
Mind you WBAC do crak me up a bit. My bro-in-law turned up there with his Beemer E46 Diesel, early 2002 140k, blue smoke pi*sing out the back due to a popped turbo…. walked out with £2500. Jammy see you next tuesday!
Posted this on the US forum
Sunroof motor is in the roof at the back, there is a small round "plug" you can remove from the carpet up there, thats the manual turning cog for the sunroof (so you can close/open it without power) it's attached to the motor.
Remove the back roof carpet, and you should see it, it's held on by 3 screws.
Long post is long:
Sunroof works off 3 main things.
1. Motor
2. Springy things
3. Runners
The motor connects to the springy things via a cog just to the right of the manual turning cog, thats it.
The motor turns aprox 1/2 rotation for every 1/4 or so that the sunroof moves, IE motor moves faster then the soonroof moves forwards or backwards.
The connection between the Motor to Springy things is s–-, pure s---, the design is flawed, any ware on the cog or springs and you get one side moves faster then the other, or just clicks and won't move at all, this isn't the runners it's that connection.
The kicker is you can't get to the fracking thing without removing the whole damn unit off the car, that means ripping the roof carpet or whatever it is off as well. (oh and it's also upside fracking down)
The way you can temp fix the issue is this:
Rip the damn thing from the car.
Follow the manual on how to remove the top plate. (See bottom)
Remove the the copper and silver coloured pipes that protect the springy things
Remove the runners from the sunroof unit.
Remove everything that slides off teh back of the runners, making note on 2 things:
1 - Little red plastic protectors (Bastards when you lose them)
2 - What damn order they go in
Clean everything and I mean everything, springy things with a toothbrush (not yours) style of clean
Put everything back together BUT install the springs backwards so the ware is on the side thats not touched by the motor!
I did this last weekend and it look me (Zero technical brains) 6 damn hours but the soonroof now works like a charm.
Warning: - There are lots of them red plastic cover things, and they get covered in oil and gresse so they end up black, keep an eye out for em, you lose 1 and it won't run right.
The top plate stays on until you get the back of the runners undone (You will see it better then I can say when it's off teh car) it also stresses the plastic mounts a lot trying to get everything off in sync with the other side guide runners.
My Audi S4 left the factory (supposedly) with 261 hp.
It went on the dyno a few weeks ago at 140,000 miles and rocked out 280 hp. No mods, and service only maintainance as far as I can tell.
@6fab16b4dc=DaveMc:
Just wondering if any u guys know if the MX5 boss will fit onto the MX3?
**Should do.
For a laugh I just swapped the Xedos 9's airbagged steering wheel onto Marvin's non-airbagged wheel's column. Fits and works.**
Ok, It's not fully working but I have rewritten the instructions into English :)
Anyone that wants it, can you PM me your address (or an address I can ship it to) and I'll get the discs burned off and mailed to you :)
@4ec3ca7fbc=Mooneggs:
so are you saying you just ran cables from those 3 points to the negative batter terminal and that's it?
I might have to give this a try… I have read about grounding kits before and was wondering if they made a difference...
All they are is 6mm black cable with ring terminals fitted to the ends and I fitted them to the most electrically active areas of the engine and then straight to the battery negative so it shortens the route immensely
Let me know how it goes with yours
:lol: I wish I had a putty cat but I don't. I found out that it's the fragile nature of the ceramic that only gives it a 2 yr warranty at £62 as opposed to the stainless at£170 for 3 yr warranty. Still bit of a price gap though.
it's not hard to do if you have a spare set of harnesses and some time. i have removed alot of wiring since i have a megasquirt unit going in as well as removing the vris from the intake manifold, removed emission's as well. I've rerouted some of the wire's as well to hid them better, engine bay fuse panel is getting relocated behind the glove box. can't wait to get the new shell repainted and everything installed.
**I researched this a while back, but I've lost all my sources. Put as much faith in this answer as you think it deserves.
The normal MX-6 has the same gear ratios as the ZE, but the output shaft is geared 4.388:1 compared to the ZE box's 4.110:1
So at 7,000rpm in 5th (0.717:1) your wheels (assume 225/45R16) are turning at 158.7mph with the DE's box compared to 169.4mph with the ZE's box.**
@4f4d20a961=DaveMc:
@4f4d20a961=djmarcopolo:
Ha! sold today for £85 for the set :D
but they want them posted :(
I am going to have fun wrapping them LOL
thick black bin bags with a square cardboard on the alloy side ;)
Sounds like a plan, I have just priced it up and sending them strapped to a pallet is only £36 thats only a fiver dearer than posting individually
Hey ho viewers, I've just got a new toy, it's a suction mounted monopod for my camera, so I can now mount the camera anywhere I please as long as it's, erm, suckable, keep an eye out for more fun from "The Stalker" :wink: