Did all mine today, completely stripped them wire wheeled everything, painted and back together, the discs are held on with 2 screws, just take an impact driver just in case they are seized, the calipers on the MX's have a tendancy to seize so if you are not replacing calipers buy a pin kit for your calipers and replace all the pins + slides, doesnt take long and it will save you hassle in the future
AND DONT FORGET TO COVER EVERY MOVING THING WITH COPPER SLIP
@79e25801f3=kez:
you know where i can get them from? all ebay ones i click on seem to only be 25mm.
the cheapest you will find with next day del…
http://www.gmaxsuspension.co.uk/gmax-mazda-mx3-16i-16v-18i-v6-24v-1091-lowers-by-40mm-spring-kit-30-ma-07_p1250208.htm
Hey Rainy, yeah won them thanks, will pay him later tonight when I finish work, when could you collec t them for me?? How far are you away from location of wheels?? Just asking as I don't expect you to get them for me for bugger all! Might be easier if you PM your phone number so we can sort things out abit easier….............
@f3ef4f968e=Rainmaker:
@f3ef4f968e=nightstalker:
I was thinking the noise on the MX could be a wheel bearing?
you may be right there… the wheel bearings on a mx have a very fine tolorence and only allow for .5mm of play and then there out..
a mild grumble could be a wheel brearing..
however are you sure its not the other half in the car and you forgot she was there...or is it time for another maccyD breakfast..
Lol, my missus don't grumble she just sits there scared and quiet :wink:
And MaccyD's is not in my diet :P
Ok update time…
right had to source a new set of front discs as the passengers was damaged, new pads again as passengers damaged...new pin and spring set...
also a quick and effective remedy for stopping the pins from slipping CIRCLIPS...
Now all fitted and back to norm so no pin issues now...
Thanks for the comments all, good to know you all care lol...
Rainy...
**MoT man, he say… FAIL.
Fronts have 300lb, rears 50lb. Handbrake is 80/100. He's noted the rear discs seem excessively pitted and recommended new ones - and said that might fix the problem (and that bleeding will probably help).
Pisser.
Edit: Ordered a pair of Black Diamond grooves for the rear to match the front. If Roc is reading, you need to stock these - they're the same part as the back of the Mk2/2.5 MX-5. I shall fit when they arrive and see if the problem goes away.**
The part numbers are different say for example Gmax springs
mx3… 30ma07
323f... 30ma03
Just checked for you and none of the range for the 323 from Gmax have the same part number as the mx3
@fbe29e8e1f=Rainmaker:
That would be the brake dust cover fella….. best to get a replacement as you may get crap in between the pads and disc...
Cheers matey, well, I lnow it needs new pads and rear discs anyway before the MOT next month so I'll get one then.
Well last night the guy with the team dynamics called me and he is desperate for cash so knocked a whopping 30% off over the phone if I collect them today so I cannot turn down a set with all good tyres on for that money so will be collecting them today at £70 for the set with tyres
The equipe is now going to have these as its new boots
PS I wanted the konigs too but money is an issue as they were £150 for the set and that was pushing it
@24d8d28a18=jamesshack:
dunno if anyone needs it but working on a How to for this…?
Cool, just put it together with pictures and then PM a moderator with it and we will just copy and paste the post it in the HOW TO section with your name at the top
or just post it in the general chat section and one of us will move it for you into that section
think it must be the cv joint then cause its a clicking for sure, it does not get louder though, if i take the disc at 9 and 3 i can turn it either way on the hub.
do u know if thats a tricky job to replace?
So you've given yourself TWO jobs to do on Bert now, springs and negative camber adjustment. I think I'll have to get me some dished wheels to go for the whole broke/euro stance :lol:
Big bar.
I think Famine and I used a 3ft long 1/2" drive breaker bar. Turn the wheels to get better access.
Penetration fluid is good, the propane torch and fluid is better. Put the tip of the light blue cone of the torch to the interface between the bolt and the casting. For brake calipers, I'd say 15 seconds at a time. Then make sure you've got your long tube on your fluid can, and spray into that same area. The oil will cool the metal (and smoke a lot) but with the cooling, the capilliary action will draw the oil into the thread. If you repeat, be ready to give a good hard blow - you can set light to the exposed oil - but it's no big deal.
On bolts where there's nothing critical in the way, I light 'em up for 30 seconds a time, and keep spraying the oil in until it's stopped smoking. It's the only way to get the chassis crossbrace bolts out, IMO.
@3d476a18cd=Famine:
**Well, since we've eliminated your tyre size as a problem and you don't think there's any play in vital suspension components…
Check your caster adjusters (the lip on the topmount - stock has them both pointing inwards). A 4-wheel alignment check is a good, free peace-of-mind check (though they're free to check, if they need adjusting they won't be). If you have worn (or cheap) tyres (or Pirelli P6000s) you might experience the same symptoms.
Mechanically you might have shagged ARBs, a shot CV joint (particularly if it happens more noticeably in one direction - check the outside one) or a knacked wheel-bearing (though you'd spot that in normal driving, unless you think blending spanners is a good noise for a car).
Incidentally, if you plough straight through a turn, it's understeer.
I'd also note that the 205 section tyres used as stock on the V6 are really pushing the edges of what you should try and put on a 6" rim - they're an 8" tyre!**
I have been hearing a squek from the front may well be the bearing ;)
Will try find a free allingment garage to see if it needs dont
pretty sure the CV's are fine though will double check that
Got a refurb Budweg Caliper off ebay and fitted at the weekend….along with pads & discs both sides.
One pad was worn much more than other on both sides but the osr caliper seemed to be slightly better than nsr (the one that failed). Made me a bit nervous on re-test today but passed no problem :D
Lori's made me think - what parts are interchangable between the various models? My "hobby" is a '74 Triumph Spitfire, an awful lot of parts are common across Triumph/MG range from the time under BL.
Is it worth a new thread somewhere suggesting parts interchangability?