@c8e41ac8b5=timorridge:
My new MX3 has drilled and grooved discs on it (single rear, vented front).
Are these type standard fit or have they been added in which case I need inform my insurance!
Any ieads?
worth noting that drilled and grooved discs can wear standard pads down quicker or wear them unevenly, they do look good though! :)
Hi, the problem im told was a leak from the power steering pipe wich was dripping onto the manifold and burning the oil. its all fixed and raring to go now. ive just drove home from work 135 miles and she held fine. Now the running problems are over im up for restoring the inside of her im on the lookout for a nice leather set of seats of if anyone could advice me on which other makes of car seats will fit into my car she a R reg….Many thanks in advance Michael
@02b9071cc2=youdirtyfox:
with OE parts? , a small fortune!
get it looked at, find out what parts have seen better days,
replace bushes & joints that are fuct and rust treat and paint up the rest if need be?
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. It's going in to get checked over sometime soon so I'll see what they say :?
On another note, I found these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mazda-MX-3-92-98-DGR-Full-Suspension-Damper-Kit-/280640791155?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41577ea273
Anyone know if they're any good (not that I can afford them anytime in the near, or distant future lol)?
@070d22556d=salvador:
so anyone recommend a ghetto drop??
or any specific brand i should get..
iirc most on here use Gmax springs they are the prefered option apex are a tad on the hard side for std struts youll fined the gmax ones very good for the ride quality and prices also, i myself used apex on wes to begin with and changed over to Gmax much better…
remember anything lower than -40mm the strut will bottom out as you wont have enough stroke in the piston for travel..
I changed mine for poly ones. Was fairly straightforward. Issues may be the droplink nuts which love to rust solid & ball joint condition. Other than that, the other bolts that hold on the control arm are generally ok to crack off.
@c70c99b9ad=dazfoxy530:
is there any way to bodge it so the handbrake doesnt go on, on that side? I leave it in gear anyhow.
Would definately not recommend that, have you checked that the lug the handbrake cable attaches to can be moved or that the handbrake cable is moving freely inside its sleeve on that side.
I have some spare calipers, not sure of condition or even if theyre front or rear as they were bought as a job lot of parts, bought them from a member on here so believe them to work, your only in bournemouth, so could come and try fitting them this weekend and see if that resolve the problem.
Id do a check on the diagnostics port as a starting point, might show you immediately what the problem is, after that, follow wharts already in the above posts, just be careful when checking the vacuum lines because youll need the engine running while checking and also the vacuum lines could give you a nip or blood blister if you pass a finger/hand over the leak, no idea what the vacuum is on engines, but I once had part of a glove get sucked into a vacuum line and then into the vacuum pump, you wouldnt want that to happen on your car, so I wouldnt use gloves, but the point is, if it could tear apart my nitrile glove and suck it in, you could get hurt, so do please be careful!
**Don't put wider tyres on the rear unless you looooooove understeer.
As it happens, for another purpose I did a size guide. This suits V6s, but I have an i4 (different stock sizes) guide too:
As a rule of thumb:
*Smaller = speedo overread = safer for your licence and better acceleration
*3% difference advised as a maximum; try to keep it to under 2% at worst and 0.5% at best - note that a new tyre will be 2.2% larger than an old tyre of the same size
*Tyre width is almost completely irrelevant to anything, except the width of the wheel you're putting it on.
*Smaller profile = harsher ride
And, most importantly:
Theory is fine, but practice is better. Check your tyre manufacturer's website for a more accurate size guide.*
@14e66ea3c2=HammyGlos:
@14e66ea3c2=daniel:
it was very easy mate. take wheel off, undo 3 bolts holding braks in place on the wishbone. pull break out of joint after taking the hub nut off and pull the cv joint out. Might need some hard pulling as they can be pretty tight in there. make sure you get the old clip off before you try putting the new one on.
Sounds so easy… However, Hub nuts are a b***h to remove for a start...
yeah i had a high impact air gun on mine :lol:
other than that its not a difficult job
thanks both of you for replying so quick I have changed all the rear brake pads and I found my new pads are thinner than two of my old pads and my brakes are now just rubbing a little but I can turn the wheels now
Thanks again
Andy
Make sure that the bore that the sliders slide inside is ok, as if its not then the new sliders will end up gettinf fooked.
They need to be perfectly clean and smooth.
Also personally I don't like use copper grease the sliders like some people do, if it does get air into it or too much heat it can dry out and cause problems.
FANNY!
I dont know WHY I didnt check this before ordering a part, but today I fixed the problem. It was only the damned disc shield rubbing against the disc!! probably bent when new caliper was fitted, DOH!!!
so, I now have a spare bearing, anyone want it for cheaps?
No point in buying a car because it handles well and then ruining it with oversized wheels. I am considering your wheels as you are local to me but for aesthetic reasons. I'll still need winter tyres but 15s are so much cheaper. Maybe it's time to bring my offroader out of retirement for winter purposes.
