Manifold
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Does anyone make a nice shiney stainless mani for the four pot?
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Probably the same part as the MX-5, which would be this.
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There's the Probe 2.0 manifold and Corksport.com sell one specially designed for our engines also.
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@a5f8855428=Famine:
Probably the same part as the MX-5, which would be this.
:shock: Hell! That's a lot of money. Isn't the MX5 engine mounted differently though? As in sideways?
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**Yours will be sideyways. MX-5 will be longyways.
The Probe solution smells like a bodge but I think whatever you do will have to end with a bodge if you can't get the Corksport one. Simplest way would be a fannymould that actually fits in the first place - like the MX-5 one - then getting an exhaust place to fab up the rest. They may have to make a short fannymould-precat section and then catback it, for which you're probably looking at another £300.
Edit: Corksport's is $349 before shipping.**
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@db1f64926a=Famine:
**Yours will be sideyways. MX-5 will be longyways.
The Probe solution smells like a bodge but I think whatever you do will have to end with a bodge if you can't get the Corksport one. Simplest way would be a fannymould that actually fits in the first place - like the MX-5 one - then getting an exhaust place to fab up the rest. They may have to make a short fannymould-precat section and then catback it, for which you're probably looking at another £300.**
Crikey. I might just have to sell some parts (human parts) to get some more free flowing air then. By the way, I finish work at 1 tomorrow so may have a rattle over(be about 1.30 ish) to see the aerial and see if it will make any difference to my none shrinky type.
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If your going down that route you may aswell get them
to chuck a certain flange on there for real power gains.. :wink:
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ive heard ind doing the 2.0 probe maifold is pritty easy and it would give a better air flow have a hunt round mx3.com there are a few on there that have done it but i cant find them now
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Think admin (daryl) has also done a probe 2.0 manifold on a 1.6 also.
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http://www.uk-mx3.com//forum/viewtopic.php?t=3711
IIRC Probe 2.0 is the way to go but requires redrilling the flange for the bolt holes.
http://www.uk-mx3.com//forum/viewtopic.php?t=1701
Check out jamesmx3s worklog^
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I found the pics. Enjoy.
My personal additions to this would be:
- Use a pillar drill and mount the manifold properly. Awkward, but you can use a sharp 12mm drill and some suds straight away.
- Do cut and reweld/braise the flange. Much better engineering solution.
- If you're welding, weld some plugs back into the corner holes that are being elongated here. You could do with clamp force there really. Just pop a plug of metal in, flat it down with an angle grinder, and use a penny washer under your manifold bolt head.
Arguably, if you can do this, you can rent a pipe bender and DIY the lot. A local jobbing job can get you laser cut flanges for not much (or you can probably get them off the shelf for MX-5?) and copy the design. Equal length primaries are nice, but overrated. It's more important in a four-pot than a Yank bent-crank V8, but you really wouldn't notice an inch difference in pipe lengths at the collector on a four-pot. People get so uptight about this, it's bullshit really. Do some dyno development, you'll see what really makes a difference. Equal length primaries ain't it.
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a how to fit the 2.0l probe manifold kit onto the 4cylinder mx3. not sure if the exhast is the same on all years but this is on a 1998. enjoy!
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what you'll need:
Probe Manifold- (kind of obvious i know)
Mx3 exhaust manifold gasket
Drill
drill bits- 3-12mm (dont need all in between but makes drilling easier)
hammer
centre punch
Round file
Vice
marker pen
new Catalitic converter (or customise your old one)
gas torch
MIG welder (or access to one for new cat)Step1: Place the manifold gasket onto the manifold making sure its the right way up! Mark the holes using your marker pen.
Step2: With the holes maked, take you centre punch and hammer and make a small pot mark in the centre of each black dot you've made. dont bother doing the ones for the corners as the bigger drill bits will just slip in to the existing hole.
Step3: take your 3mm drill bit and drill through the pot marks. then drill them again using bigger and bigger bits until you reach the 12mm. going up in steps makes it easier as you are not trying to remove lots of material at once.
Step4: the boring bit! put the manifold in a vice using some soft jaws or put cardboard around it to protect the finish. take your round file and 'elongate' the corner holes. this takes a bit but stops you breaking your wrists when the drill binds.
Step5: When you think you've filled enough, you probably haven't. but its a good idea to keep test fitting to see if you are going in the right direction
i was lucky as i have a cyclinder head in my shed so made this stage a lot easier. Once you've got it to fit it should look a bit like this:
Step6: The mounting points on the down/front pipe need to be reversed, I did this with a gas torch. heat the bend then using a suitible tool, (i chose a big set of grips, but a ring spanner would work too) slowly twist the bar through 180degrees. you could cut the welds, turn the piece around and weld it back on, but using the gas is quicker!
Step7: the Catalitic Converter, thats the only really 'custom' piece you will need to make. I used a magna flow 'High Flow' cat from the USA its a weld in one, but due to the manifold kit you will need to weld flanges on in order to make it fit the rest of the system. the flanges i had were for 2.5" pipe, whereas the cat was 3. I decided instead of just butt welding the flanges on, and guessing the centre, I'd bore out the hole and make a spigot (making the hole stepped so one side would be 2.5" and the other 3) for the cat to sit into.
To do this I put the flanges in a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe, and and slowly bored them out until i could just about push the cat into the hole. I then welded them on using a MIG welder. the spigot gives a better fit and seal agaist a butt weld.
Step8: With all the parts ready, remove all the old rusted stuff, and bolt it on in the following order:
You need to decided now wether you are going to block your EGR, the pipe that runs from the Inlet Manifold to the Exaust Manifold, if you are going to block it the car will run richer than normal, if you intend to keep the EGR open you will need to remove the pipe from the old manifold.
bolt the cat to the down/front pipe
Hang the down/front pipe using the rubber hangers
Bolt the other end of the cat to the rear of the system
Then with the down pipe resting on a jack or block of wood, bolt the manifold to it, its easier to do it whilst its below the plastic shielding on the under side of the engine bay.
lift the manifold into position with a new gasket and tighten the nuts. the two studs in the top middle of the manifold will need to be remooved and allen bolts used to replace them.
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i will get the measurement of the cat i made up and edit it in, hope you can post this in the how to section. Am i the first in the UK to do this mod?? cool if i am! lol
cheers
Jamessome links
think the cat is 13" but i'll check for sure tommorow.
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Question, where did that shiny intake trunking come from?
The flexible concertina bits on mine have cracked through.
Are they available?
