Check the ECU, most likely if its an KF swap, then he'll have used the KF ecu.
Btw, the K8ZE (at least mine) seems to pull alot faster than the equivalent DE.
hmmmm never thought about that to be honest… I did have to get it replaced 2 years ago and had to have a special one ordered in as the lanits one is slightly higher amperage. well what I will try is to disconect my main feed to the alternator and then try start it again and see if the fuse blows again
Tbf OBX stuff is not well known for its great quality. The twin loop one sounds like a great idea in theory and if your bought a quality stainless one with not to huge inlet outlet with plenty of good packing materiel it should'nt be too loud. Have a look at midland exhaust website they do some nice kit.
Hi fellas, i did an'earthing' mod, even going as far as to replace all factory earths with 8mm diameter cables and soldering on eyelets (not crimping!). I also ran a circuit earth round the entire enginebay attaching a soldered on eyelet to every lump of metal, (resistance/ zero voltage checking as i went!) returning it back to bat neg terminal/chassis! not really to speed up starting times but to rectify my massive headache as posted 5 11 12? has it made a difference? well the starting never sounds labored or rough, its just slow to start? and no body can tell me its a 'bad earth'! :) . Think im gunna check my timing? but need pic of label attached to diagnostic lid? as mine gone, ON BOTH CARS! anyone help??
Already got some bud :) & am tempted to go down that route but was looking for ways of making the bay more shiny and new looking.
I've got some corksport 1.6 mounts here.. would they work?
This is the part of the work where I'm in "I don't have a fracking clue" area. :(
the blue one is just a resonator pipe. i have removed mine and plugged the hole. however, under the resonator pipe is a small breather hose, all i did to keep it out the way was punctured a small hole in the bottom of the air filter and put the hose inside there. do not worry about removing the resonator pipe, makes a more meaty sound without it on anyway. just make sure you have a large bung or something else to plug up the hole otherwise the car will run like a sack of poo. unless you are planning on replacing the entire intake pipe, in which case ignore what i just said ;)
@Marco:
Has it had thee timing belt done including the hydraulic tensioner? Thats my guess. Otherwise the friction gear spring on the rear exhaust cam.[/quote
snap but if emgine isnt reeallt well looked after, after 100k they will make nose but oerefect to drive on
thanks for your offer, however i dont want to spend any more money on car except MOT if its still there in the summer. Im bench charging in the house up to that point, it should be fine. Never had any bother with it before, went flat cos no use
you guys are so lucky to get the K8ZE. When I had my presso the "butt dyno" felt that the car could run laps around my MX3 (K8DE) and my MX6 (KLDE)
I just swapped in a KLZE in to the MX3 and the "butt dyno" was wondering why i didnt ditch the K8DE a LOOOOONG time ago..
The car even feels faster than the presso did…...
Ditch the K8ZE and get a KL anything!
Or just wait and see if you can find a KLZE. Your Rx7 will hold you over till then lol.
Its cheaper and more bang for your buck!
Im speaking from experience of years of wasting my time with the K8 power plant...
and just take logic into consideration. If it was beneficial to squeeze more power from the K8 people would have done it by now.......
Just my 2 cents :rofl:
Thanks for the reply.
I found the problem(s).. A unseated ht lead and a bad negative terminal connection. Cleaned it up and its now starting first turn of the key! Also the idle problem has resolved, probably due to the ht lead but the air pipe still needs replacing as it definitatly has cracks in it though I'm not sure if they're all the way through yet.
Cheers!
Hi fellas not posted in ages :o ? certainly the symptom sounds like stat (well and truly STUCK)! not opening and 'cold' water pump pressure, forcing coolant from bottle? think the stat should still allow flow through its valve tho? as I believe they have a bypass in case of malfunction of the 'waxstat' part that allows flow due to 'temperature'. The bypass or relief bit prevents 'blowing' hoses and rad should the waxstat fail? I believe the 'swirlpot' cap (The cap to the right of the rad that has a sticker saying do not remove cap!) also has a valve in it that allows fluid to be sucked back from the bottle by vaccum during cooling of the v6 (engine off), if the spring/seal in this has failed and the valve is permanently open perhaps this could overfill the bottle during warm up? I have removed this cap (COLD) on several occasions without probs? just brim the aperture with coolant, wrap a rag round neck and refit cap. Hope to be of help? kev
