only thing with home dye kits is there can be a lot of colour running, mainly with sweating while sat in it in the summer or just long journeys.
Best thing is take the covers off, its dead easy to do they are held with little metal rings that bend apart with pliers.
Then take them to a tailors, suit repairs, cover makers, sail makers or car trimmers and slid them a couple of quid in cash just to take the centers out and put something nice in there, just go to a fabric shop you could get white leopard print LOL and then it will look the nuts and even if you pay full price, if you get the cloth first and strip the seats yourself its not as expensive as you would think.
I was quoted £70 for the work on mine if I stripped the seats and bought the cloth
@bdbf1f8937=barrywhite21:
yes he is but he is the only person i can remember having them and i saw his car on a massive car park so wouldnt be that hard to test. Wait till its dark and drive past a mate on the wrong side and see how blinded he is. :D
It's also an MOT fail with them pointing the wrong direction so would be advisable to keep your original set for test time :wink:
Many thanks for all the advice.
Will sleep on it for a few weeks to decide the best way forward.
I had harnesses in one of my minis, and loved them and felt secure, however the boss (Mrs Johhny Mac) wasnt and still isnt too keen on them.
Thanks again for all the advice.
**Broadly, no.
Spoilers do exactly what they say on the tin. They spoil airflow. The point of them isn't to generate any specific force in any direction, but rather to introduce instability in airflow, equalised in all directions. This then keeps the surface to which the spoiler is mounted stable and not prone to lateral or vertical movement at speed.
Wings are there to generate lift. The point of them is to increase the effective weight of the vehicle at speed (unless mounted upside-down - which would be very bad).
If the device on the car is a spoiler - and it usually is - mounting another one upside-down in the same place along the length of the vehicle will achieve nothing. If it's a wing, mounting another one upside-down in the same place along the length of the vehicle will counteract the first one, wiping out the point of having either of them on the car.
A splitter is its own type of wing, and only on the front of a car. It doesn't really generate any kind of force, but again does exactly what it says. It splits airflow so that high-speed air which should go under the car (generating lift at speed) goes over the car instead (still generates lift, but much less of it). As an illustrator of why this is important, the EuroStar is limited to 100mph in the EuroTunnel because if it exceeds this, the air forced under the train can lift it - and that's an 815 tonne unit - clean off the tracks. A rear splitter will, as a result, be completely useless. To where is it redirecting the airflow?!
With our FWD cars, a rear spoiler is fine. Spoils airflow and keeps the rear stable. The very most you should add is a front splitter to reduce under-car airflow (and lift) at speed, to decrease loss of traction effects from body-induced lift.
If you fancy getting all expensive, a rear venturi tunnel will work in combination with a front splitter, but you don't want any kind of splitter, spoiler or wing on the underside at the back of the car. At best it does nothing but rape fuel economy.
Unless it's just for looks - in which case, fill your boots. Just keep the speed down on the roads.**
shipping quote to your nearest airport/sea port/UK business address may
well be cheaper?!
or there are these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-MX3-MX-3-MX-3-FRONT-BUMPER-TUNING-GT_W0QQitemZ200445471181QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2eab7b29cd
^ that looks a little flimsy around the strut top towers were it joins
the bar though!
could'nt you use thicker material around that area but countersink the nuts into it?
@ac3f62a8fe=nexussteve:
Yeah, I mean the actual lens itself, not the whole cluster.
I can see it has 2 clips at the top and 3 at the bottom, but even after prising a couple out, it doesn't look like it wants to budge at all!!
**Okay, disregard the first bit then :lol:
Most plastic lens covers of this type are just held in place with a number of clips. I haven't looked at mine, but if you say it's five, five it is (though my experience with MX-3s is that there's always one more fixing you never noticed before :lol: ). Normal procedure for removal is to get them really warm and pliable with a hairdryer and prise them free - the heat prevents the plastic from behaving in a brittle fashion and snapping.
Beyond that, it's something I've not yet done so I can't assist further.**
The lacquer fell off my bonnet after some stone chips so I did exactly what you want to do last year.
ITS EXTREMELY HARD WORK TO GET RIGHT
I tried doing it in one hit and it does not work, you need to make a join exactly up the middle of the bonnet from front to rear to make it work as the shape at the front makes it impossible to get it flat in one go.
To do it right, clean all the bonnet with an acetone to remove grease etc
make a line exactly down the center of the bonnet
Over lap by at least 2cm on one side of the line
wet the bonnet with water and a small touch of washing up liquid
start flattening out the vinyl with a vinyl squeegy the better quality you get the better it applies to the bonnet
When you start getting to curves etc gently heat the vinyl with a hairdryer
and it will stretch nicely over the bonnet curves
If you get bubbles the wet from the soapy water let you peel it off again + again until its right.
Then when one half is on and done you need to remark the center line and line your carbon pattern up as well as following the line.
Make sure the bonnet is kept damp as you apply it all over because you will keep lifting and reapplying to get it right
Now its all on you need to do the edges, this is a 2 stage operation because I found the heat from the engine makes the vinyl peel off the front and rear of the bonnet because of the shape.
So start by making cuts up to tight curves in regular intervals to make it curve around, now use loads of heat to stretch the vinyl over the edges but do not wet the edges it needs to stick in one hit.
Dont worry about little bubbles, get a stanley blade or sewing pin and use the end to put tiny holes in the vinyl and squeegy all the bubbles out
Now the vinyl is on put the bonnet back on and drive it around for a couple of weeks to make sure the glue has gone off and its stuck well.
Now to tidy the edges to stop the peeling a couple of weeks later, I have used chrome effect trim for doors etc, its cheap to buy and now you need to do the front and the rear of the bonnet. you need to go along with an adhesive, I recommend marine sikaflex in black colour as its pretty indestructable and put a very fine line along each edge as you do it, then slide on the trim and all the way along, the sikaflex will go everywhere so as soon as the strip is on get some acetone and wash off the excess on the car and your hands, then just hold in place with some masking tape and leave for 24hrs, its all done then
Ebay shopping list
you will need to buy 2 rolls of this to do the bonnet properly
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Self-Adhesive-CARBON-FIBRE-EFFECT-VINYL-1220mmx1m-Sheet_W0QQitemZ270543508863QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3efda6557f
SIKAFLEX - Black
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sikaflex-marine-Sealent-adhesive-sealent-291-BLACK_W0QQitemZ360228771735QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM?hash=item53df4ed797
Chrome trim
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-3-Meter-Chrome-Look-Door-Edge-Protector-Mouldings_W0QQitemZ270285833676QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3eee4a85cc
Decent squeegy
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Felt-Squeegee-sign-making-vinyl-plotter_W0QQitemZ300420345664QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item45f272af40
soapy water, 1l of water to 1 teaspoon of washing up liquid
THIS IS HOW MINE HAS COME OUT
you can see to the right of the mazda badge I have some creasing due to the shape but I would not get this if its done in 2 parts as you can see on the left of the mazda badge