Sam's Proper MX-3 - LT Turbo project *Parting out*
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Nice! So is it still going off the road? Have you tried adjusting the handbrake at the bolt under the gaiter?
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Ay up Marco, how goes the fix and repair :) ????
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Update just for you :lol:
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It has new rear discs & pads, sliders were all very clean so I just added some more red rubber grease and the handbrake cable under the gaiter is adjusted up to the max.
Just scraped enough together for another 6 months road tax so She is well and truly on the road again. :D
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Been working like a dog since it passed to get these seats and belts fitted! Made the rear brackets yesterday and another lunchtime session today making another set for my side!
Securon 500/15 red belts fitted great, few mods needed to get these to work but not a great amount.
Rear brackets: Outer.
Inner: Creates a captive bolt.
Securon buckle:
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Those belts are really very sexy :shock: Seats looking great!
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Cheers man hows about these then! all in there now. Too mashed from today though to test ride em out….
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Vvvvvery nice seat install fella :) Do they have all the same adjustments as mexy's? Whats the wheel do on 'base cushion' side? Driver only?
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Cheers Bro! Both seats have full tilt on the backs and sliders forward on the whole seat allowing rear passengers to get in but only the drivers side has the seat base adjusting tilt like the mexy via that rotary knob.
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Excellent choice :) What about firmness as apposed to mexy? The most comfortable and adjustable seat I have planted my rear on was in a 94 Honda prelude LSi :P They were black velour so no 'slip slidey abouty' they had manual side bolster and lumber, but electric fore and aft, lift, and tilt, both passenger and driver! They were as I remember quite narrow but incredibly heavy and expensive to repair/replace. I occasionaly put a search in ebay for them but as yet no luck, and of those that do surface they're in the same state as a tramps favourite pair of undercrackers! :shock: Your install appears to be an excellent alternative???? :bigok: kev b.
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Belts are deliciouse too :D how much for pair? rears available?
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I feel the seats offer just the right amount of firmness versus comfortability. The are hugging without being too slim fitting for me> So just about perfect!
Someone on another forum commented on how they where like sitting in Kate Uptons lap,lol.A workmate has Honda Civic Type R seats in His Cupra and they are really nice too, but not cheap at all> Like your paying for name almost like Recaro etc.
Seat belts are £85 ish for the front pair, and I would imagine there will be rears available too somewhere on the securon website has they make all sorts of different kind of seatbelts including military stuff, however the rears are going to have to wait till I find some rear celica benches down the breakers to pilfer the material from to recover mine with
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:cheers: for that fella. I will look into front belts first (as mine are so ssssssssssslow to rewind, i normally have to 'ferret' around the rear seat foot well for the buckle? :(
Think the return springs had 'IT', as theres no restriction in the guides etc? strange tho as the relatively unused passenger side is the same?? corroded/rusting clock springs?? :? Might operate on a spare I have, if I 'kill' it, no biggy, Ill at least know what makes em 'tick?' or not in my case! :lol:
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Haha yeah I had the 'ol slow rewind too on the drivers belt, did get annoying so nice to have these. If you do get these front belts shoot me a PM and I will let you know what mods. I did in more detail for them to fit.
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OK will do :)
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Right back to work now after an awesome week off and they have fixed my turning lathe. As we are quite quiet at the moment thought I was a good for some homework. Time to give this car the nice & sexy wheels She deserves, so I decided to machine the dish on them, so they will have polished/machined dishes & lips with gold centers.
Only took a very light skim, have 3 more to do like this then I will reset the machine to skim the outer lip and put them on the hand lathe and blend the radius and create a nice bead on the outer edge. Will edit more pics into this post as I progress with them.
All four wheels at this stage now.
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"Themz iz gunna dazzle like jewelz when they iz done!" :mrgreen: Love em already :P
Do you know anywhere that does anodizing? although I think they'd need bead blasting first then dipping in acid etch then the anodizing, which would dull your machine spun finish?? (Iirc? anodizing is a microscopic layer of hexhagonal facets that are pigmented and reflect the colour that is chosen)
If your'e spraying em. they need to be a bright yellow/gold Eh? kind of like 'custom gold flake' of old
I know my experiences of 'golds' is they're great when the base colour coat goes on, but if two pack and you apply laquer, the shimmer often dies??? :(How deep is the throat on ya lathe? my dad has a SOAG in his garage and it will only just take a 14" rim with the removable bit beneath the chuck removed? :(
My lazy seatbelt investigation on a spare went…. so so? Verdict is:
Fronts and Rears can be only be adjusted ( ie clockspring wound up more to give more retraction) by unpicking stitching on buckle ends, dismantling mechanism???? and re sewing on a dedicated machine using ultra-strong rayon thread!! So buy some 'NEW' ones!!!!!!I used to go climbing in my 30's so have access to eqiupment needed to repair slings, harnesses etc and while I have every confidence in the strength of my repairs, I regard any seatbelt repair as NOT possible! REPLACE ONLY WITH NEW!!!!! people. needless to say, Ill put up with the Sssslow rewind!! :shock: :(
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Haha lets get them blingin indeed :D Yeah we deal with quite a few metal treatment centers which I could of used I suppose, just wanted to see how good a Gold finish I could get with paint. I don't know if they could of masked
of the machined edges??!! Oh well I bought the paint now, only two cans of plasti kote metallic gold to start with along with a special Metallic sealer spray as it is recommended for items being used outside. How well it stands up to brake dust is another matter though!!??Here is picture I found on the net of someones sculpture project painted with plastikote but with a black primer used ( would you reccommend a black primer?) I have done a few test patches with the paint and it is a very nice yellow Gold as I was hoping so I'm happy with that tbf.
Concerning lathes we have a set of extended Jaws for the chuck that will clamp on the rear outer edge of wheel upto about 19" is my guess then you will start fouling the bed depending on the width of the wheel?! (even with that removable part out the way) Then a pressurre plate on the tailstock gives even more clampage, stops chattering marks and prevent your fingers from slipping into the spokes (!!!) If I did want to complete the polish on that particular machine.
If its just slim billets being turned the full swing on the Colchester Mastiff I work on is about 27" But if that proves not enough we have just installed a Stanley sliding bed turning lathe with a mahoosive swing of 64" Big enough to machine a fookin tractor wheel I would imagine,lolBad times on the lazy belt situ man, it would of been nice to repair it what with your keen sewing skills an all, but it just ain't worth the hassle is it?! I know of a company that refurbs belts, wheather that's just the actuall belt or mech. I don't know. Or you might get lucky at the breakers with a as new seatbelt set up??!!
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Paint will hold up just fine with brake dust and such as long as you clear them. My WORK wheels came painted vs powder coated from WORK. I would just not us harsh chemical wheel cleaners that sat on them too long. If you anodize then what ever finish you have your lip will be the finish that you end up with. so if you leave it machined you will get a machined finish. I would polish those to a mirror, tape them off and spray your desired color of choice.
When you said gold you really meant it! I would get some black, grey, and red primer and spray like some 6" sections onto something and then use your paint over the top then you can really make a good determination on what primer to use. I am thinking grey may be the best, but I also think red might give it something extra, and it could pop more.
Regardless fabulous work Sam!
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Nice 'TITS'!!! :P Kin ell if they turn out that bright the reflected image in shop windows down the highstreet is gunna be amazing? :D
I think plasticote do a beige primer? Dont really think primer colour is that important tho if the gold is heavy loaded with flake pigments and contains lustres and you spray at least 3 coats?
Ive been a litho printer for 27 yrs and if we run a metallic gold, we get far better results if its laid over a matt yellow ink or primer :?
Think the black primer was used on the 'gold tart' due to any damage to the gold in the future would only show black through??? :shock:
Sounds like you have access to some crackin equipment !!! 64" :shock:
My fathers SOAG is a grumpy beast! still with its leather belt and metal joint hence the brmmmmm tack brmmmmm tack brmmmmm tack! When its running all the paint tins and areosols on garage shelves vibrate, its mounted on carpet and the pulley cabinet is carpeted out, but it still makes its self heard! …..... and felt! It can still turn a 'cd' like surface on a bar end though with its 60+yr bearings etc :)SEATBELTS? two outings today first one, buckle under seat! second it had retracted half way to its resting place :o blimey! think im going to have a look at weekend, might even drill a small hole in spring cover and squirt some light oil in there? clockspring is either rusted or grease has dried up?? If I have success? will post a 'how to' with pics etc, if not off to scrapper we go
:( kev b.
