To think that someone would…
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hotlink to the US mx3 site. Sorry Daryl!
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=71101&p=525138#p525138
Has anyone in the UK put a ZE into an OBD2 mx3? Because so far we are at FAIL. And I'm the one holding the receipts…
We're having a lot of trouble getting the car up and running. It will fire up, but is missing badly.
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2nd person to ask me this week.
OBDII and a ZE are a big no no unless you want major headaches. I'm not even going to go into it as theres sooooo many issues, most people who do eventually get it to run ok do it by luck more than anything.
you "might" get some help from this thread
but the general opinion is, if you're OBDII then you need to swap the loom to OBDI or go megasquirt.
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Ok…
As far as your ecu is concerned this is the same engine. With all the same sensors being used it effectively is. All it requires is more fuel.
So are you using the same sensors where the ze were different?
Are you using the disty that belongs to your car?
If you are using an afpr what is it set at and have you removed the stock fpr?
Have you got the fuel lines the right way around?-on rails and afpr
Have you tried rotating your disty to adjust timing?
Have you verified the timing marks on the crank and cam pulleys are still all lined up?
Do you have good battery voltage? 13/14v
How's your cap and rotor?
Is your fuel still good and the fuel filter?
Checked ht lead order?
Adjusted TPS?
Checked all sensors are plugged in?
Checked for vacuum leaks and routing of all hoses?
Tried a spare VAF?These are why would go through my mind. I'd write this better but I'm on my phone ;)
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There are plenty of US success stories. Some of whom get better mileage than I do with my silly probinator chip. The fact is, it's a block of metal just like the block that was removed. If the sensors are the same, and the fuel flow is increased via larger injectors and optionally tuned with an afpr then there's little else to it.
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The Hamster -
We'll be trying to fabricate an adaptor from an OBD2 harness to an OBD1 ECU, looking for the parts, so if you, or anyone you know is chucking out a convenient section of OBD1 harness ('tween firewall and ECU) or a chippable ECU, then you'll get cash money and / or a xmas card. :lol: I've been looking into Megasquirt also, yes, but as a more involved long term plan or a plan b for this.
Marco -
So are you using the same sensors where the ze were different?
AFAIK.
Are you using the disty that belongs to your car?
YES
If you are using an afpr what is it set at and have you removed the stock fpr?
NO. (We have an afpr to hand, not hooked up, still on the stock.)
Have you got the fuel lines the right way around?-on rails and afpr
YES
Have you tried rotating your disty to adjust timing?
YES
Have you verified the timing marks on the crank and cam pulleys are still all lined up?
YES
Do you have good battery voltage? 13/14v
YES
How's your cap and rotor?
GOOD
Is your fuel still good and the fuel filter?
POSSIBLY S*** FUEL. FUEL FILTER IS NEW (Car has been stood for 18 months.)
Checked ht lead order?
YES
Adjusted TPS?
YES
Checked all sensors are plugged in?
YES
Checked for vacuum leaks and routing of all hoses?
YES
Tried a spare VAF?
COULD TRY ANOTHER…We have fuel and spark.
I agree with you Marco. I'm not a professional mechanic (or an amateur actually), but it looks to me that the car is starved of fuel. I'm working with Daryl on this, he's already done a few swaps, OBD1s. He's not happy with the engine's behaviour, on the stock OBD2 ecu compared to the unchipped stock OBD1 ecu (so wants to get it running just as badly as the ZE does in an OBD1 car before introducing the AFPR). It's pinking, missing. If I give it HEAVY gas it'll rev and go for as long as my foot's down.
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I don't suppose either of you have a wideband o2 you can get hold of? Then you'd know exactly what was going on regarding fuel.
Things that affect fueling:
VAF (get the multimeter out and check it's within spec)
Coolant sensor at the filling neck (get the multimeter out and check it's within spec)
TPS (get the multimeter out and check it's within spec)
Oxygen sensors, all hooked up?
FPR
Fuel pumpFuels been sitting for 18 months???? If that's actually the case I'm sure it's crap by now, with condensation, crap octane and therefore knock resistance. Incidentally, does your AFPR have a pressure guage? Might be worthwhile installing just to check your getting good fuel pressure.
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I don't have one to hand, no. Daryl might.
I know, I know, I agree, I wasn't happy with the fuel either, it must be rotten by now. I looked at draining the fuel tank at one point. I know I can't just stick a hose into the tank… Know an easy drainage method?
Yup, I want to install the shiny chrome expensive afpr because. Yup, it has a cool looking psi meter on the front for making adjustments etc.
Yes, a multimeter is needed in this situation as our diagnostics box, connected as per the instructions, gives a single light then fades. That means no fault found.
We originally tried the car with a KL-02 vaf, from an mx6(?). But we got nothing; no start at all. Possible scrapyard dud, the vafs / mafs are easily broken from what I've read. Is there an easy way to test the JE50's / KL02's? Looks like a kind of sliding variable resistor to me, just a question of checking the circuit resistance and making some comparisons I expect.
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Chris,
KL-02 Vaf will only run with a KL-05 MX6 ecu (KLDE uk spec no speed limiter)
JE50 Vaf works with a KLZE KL31, KL36 or stock mx3 v6 ecu
Your main problem is that the 31/36 and kl-05 are all OBDI ecu's.
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Advice I've been given is that the AFPR will get more fuel out to the engine, and that the KL02 vaf will respond better with an OBD2 ECU in this setup. That's the advice from the guys in the states at least.
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^who have working klzes obdIIs. The vaf is In principle a VR/potentiometer, different vafs give different values the klo2 leans out the mix I beleive.
Chris you could get a wiggle/jiggle syphon and drain most of it.
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Cool.
Congrats on your thousandth post btw!
