Cambelt change images
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@bffc075532=Mechanic:
I use an air gun to shock em off…
that's what I had to do… crank pulley can be stuck real bad if you've never removed it!
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hmm theres meant to be 350ftlbs on my air impact gun, my crank pulley laughed at it :cry:
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@4e636d936b=jackso11:
Hi all,
Does anyone have the instructions for changing the cambelt on a 1.8 V6? I know there are instructions on the US mx-3 site but the images don't work.
Anyone got it in a pdf, or word document?
My belt snapped and a garage insists it is £2000 to fix (even though I know it is a non-interference engine and will just need a new belt!) so I am doing it myself.
I used the mazda workshop manual when I changed mine:
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php?file=/1992 Workshop Manual/B2/92_B2-106.gif
that should get you started…
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**Well, we just quit after half an hour of trying to get this sodding bolt off. There has to be an "easy" way, but nothing we've tried yet has done anything but spin the crankshaft.
Expletive expletive expletive.
Anyone got any better ideas?**
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put the car in gear. it will stop it from spinning so you can undo the nut. i used the:
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/index.php?folder=/
manual, it has for the normal engine (K8 mine is) and i had no experience doing anything remotely mechanical and i was fine doing mine. just remember to do all nuts up properly and double checK everything (from my experience!)
good luck mate
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**Nup. We can turn it in any gear. We're using a combination of Leska's MX-3.com guide, the 1995 workshop manual and Chilton's manual. And this **ing nut will not budge.
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To get the engine to stop spinning take the starter motor off, then jam the flywheel that you can see in the gap with a large screwdriver or similar that will lock the engine solid then its a case of a large lever bar to take the crank pulley off, they are tight and usually done up with a windy gun.
When you put it all back make sure everything is covered in copperslip to avoid this again
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**Damn. That means taking off the entire intake tract.
That said, I'd have to do that to swap the fuel filter, so… tomorrow's job! :lol:**
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have you tried it with the foot brake on?
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@bc1650b087=kaiserno.12:
have you tried it with the foot brake on?
**Yup :D
We're currently at:
1. Fire.
2. Turn it over.
3. Screwdriver inna flywheel.These will be attempted in reverse order tomorrow.**
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When I did mine it was a case of jam the flywheel and then use a windy gun + a lever bar just to get it to crack, took about an hour of swapping them and taking turns to just get that small movement need to break the seal it had created, once it did it was off
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**We eventually got it by putting a screwdriver into an access hole in the clutch and jamming it against the side of the hole the starter motor came from. With my able mechanic on the screwdriver and me on a two foot breaker bar gently increasing the torque on it, it cracked.
We just put the new belt on (and Christ is that a palaver) - the belt that came off has covered about 44k in 6 years and looks pretty much like the new one - and we're having a tea break. Next up is to put the covers and pulleys all back on, and we've decided to leave the mount until last simply for knuckle clearance.
For reference, the timing marks didn't all line up until the hydraulic tensioner was on and the ram engaged. Two full crankshaft rotations later, they're all still there. Two more and they're still there. It's a bit of a dark art if you're doing it yourself.
I'll put up a thread tomorrow some time with the pictures and tips.**
