K8ZE - Colt Cams
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Just remembered that they've actually got cams specifically for a turbo set up. I wonder how they'd perform on an N/A for a short period, not well I'd imagine! Maybe just doing this all in one go (turbo, cams et al) would make more sense.
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Also looks like I may have overlooked that Colt Cams regrind the cams you send into them. :oops:
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Ah that makes more sense pricewise, easy and cheap to get hold of a second set though?!
You could go:
Piggyback
Cams
Turbo then try to dial out some of the overlap with the vernier pulleys.Plenty of rolling road sessions needed too!
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Sounds like a master plan ;-) I should be able to pick up a set from a KLDE handy enough.
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I bet your gearbox will explode before rods go on a turbo k8.
Does anyone have any source for evidence of K8ZE cams? My K8ZE has regular lift cams, no ZE about it. Main gain I can see is a better designed Y pipe and no pre cats. Haven't cracked it open yet to check for piston shape/compression. EGR OEM block off plate too. I'm pretty sure the Lantis type R KFZE had higher lift cams like the KLZE, but I'm not so sure the k8 did.
There was a USA guy ran 12+ psi for 2 years on a k8 before his car got wrecked by someone else. I think you can be beating on ZEs reliably with a k8 turbo.
Colt cams, check out probetalk for used sets.
Even KLZE KL31 cams would be a reasonable gain. 200bhp NA without ITBs will be hard work though. Turbo you will exceed that with relative ease IMO. Get a KLG4/KLDE or port out to straight neck/millenia ZE shape your heads, another few bhp plus the KL throttle body is a very easy gain.
Vernier pulleys are a bugger on these as there are 4 cams, I've only seen one set where a guy custom made adjustable gears for the 2 inside the engine driven cams. The ones I have are for different reasons.
Turbo
M62 eaton /SC14 /rotrex etc
ITBs
Nitrous
or you're not making it to near 200bhp IMO.
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Sorry, I wasn't clear. The idea is to get as much as I can n/a and then turbo it to get it over the line. I figured I could get to around 170 and then a small turbo, like a T25, to get up to the 200 mark. Its pie in the sky thinking to expect 200 break without a turbo, ITB, sc etc…
As for the K8ZE cams, I haven't seen any real specs for it. Supposedly the extra ~15bhp the ZE makes over the K8DE is mostly down to more aggressive cams. I wonder if Rob still has his set of KF cams.
On the adj. cam pulleys, would the CDF ones not be able to get the timing right on these?
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Ah ok cool. Well that'd be interesting to see what you can get out the k8. I'm pretty sure I measured my k8ze cams vs the k8de cams and they were the same. Unless the duration is different, but I doubt it.
CDF pulleys correct timing for each bank, you can't change ex VS intake for each bank. If we had 4 pulleys we could do that, but 2 cams are driven inside the head, so it's very hard to alter the timing of each cam.
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Interesting. I might see about KF01 cams from a KFZE. There's a KFZE mx6 in a local scrapyard so I should be able to get them cheap. Its hard to get solid info on these cams though. Some guy said he measured them and they had less lift than a KL01, I'm dubious though.
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hmm that'd be pretty poor! Well bring some vernier callipers. You don't even need to take the cams off to measure. Just take the valve cover off. My KL31/ZE cams are 1.730"ish or 43.95mm. So that or greater, grab 'em.
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I wonder if not having much of a lift would be much of an issue as long as they're more aggressive/longer duration than the k8 since I plan on turbo'ing it, less overlap and all that. They seem handier found than kl36 cams.
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A KL boosted with ZE cams, will make more power than with DE cams. More lift is still good for a turbo setup. However more boost can make up for this. I don't think you need to worry about cams much for an end goal of boosting. Only pay for what you can sell on for if you do play with cams etc - IMO.
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@2eec8ea032=Marco:
A KL boosted with ZE cams, will make more power than with DE cams. More lift is still good for a turbo setup. However more boost can make up for this. I don't think you need to worry about cams much for an end goal of boosting. Only pay for what you can sell on for if you do play with cams etc - IMO.
Good advice and that is the beauty of boost, normal N/A tuning goes out the window> not that it wont help, but isn't necessary, unless you are planning on N/A tuning first of course.
You had any more thoughts Jay?!
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Yep, I see Marc's point, but the aim is to get it to a point where I only need a small amount of boost to hit the 200 mark. Ideally I wouldn't want a turbo at all but that isn't going to happen.
I was going to get a set of KF01s today but I've been admitted to hospital this morning!
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ah crap nothing too serious I hope?!
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Thought it was the appendix but apparently not! All tests back clear, very mysterious!
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Weirdness indeed!
Have you seen how rear mount Turbos work? no need for expensive exhaust manifolds and good for where space is at a premium..
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No man I don't, reckon I'll do some research while I'm laid up!
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Hmm not sure how an air filter set up like one on a rear mount would hold up in Ireland. Lag would be a killer on a k8 too I'd say.
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I've pondered rear mount turbos thought about chopping out tyre well and sheeting to make space.
No need for intercooler either.
But you need to rig up a remote oil feeder tank and pump.
But I couldn't work out where to get the feed back to the engine bay.
Would make for good weight distribution
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So, picked up the KF01s today and got my caliper to 'em. I can't remember for sure which is intake and which is exhaust (anyone know the visual differences?) they measure
Exhaust - 43.45mm max height and a base circle of 35.21mm
Intake - 43.55 max height and a base circle of 35.20mm
Anyone know how to calculate the lift off of that?
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Hi guys! I couldn't help but think this is a bit like the discussions in the US about KLDE and KLZE. Here, you can get a used KLDE for $3-400 and have 165 bhp immediately, with excellent mid-range, which is what street driving is about anyway. The turbo guys talk about 250-300hp with otherwise stock KLDEs. You might give some thought to this, as a 170 hp 1.8 is going to be a revver, with very little low end power. The KLDE has at least 10 ft/lb of torque more at 2500rpm than the 1.8 has at a peak of 4500. It makes a huge difference.
BTW, Lift = Height-Base Circle. That doesn't tell you much about overall specs, but it's a start.
