Project: Gray Death.
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Proud of ya man! :cheers:
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Get her running good and come to nurburgring with me and 30 other modded cars in july :)
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Well done Bud, good 'ol perceiverance kicked in yo!
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Gave the video a like, good to get the motor working :)
Out of interest, what kind of money do the ze's change hands for?
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Around £500 would be a good guess.
I've had two for around that price now, cheaper to buy them in a car thou.
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2nd hand I'd say from 150-400 depending on condition factoring in the need for re build and parts changing. ( belts pumps gaskets etc )
800-1000 for a low mileage import engine or a built motor. Aka jays
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Ah OK, not bad then as long as you don't get a munter.
What do you recon a mot'd runner would set you back, say stock with transplant?
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Got the new temp sender in place, and wired up the rad fans as well today. Let her idle some but the fans didn't kick it and are always 'on'
Might have to jiggery pokery the wires around a little.
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Ah that is a flew in some klze swaps. It's something to do with am extra sensor required I think??..
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Anyone got any more information on that one?
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I remember reading something about that on mx3.com. if I had the time id find for you and post the link but im somewhat busy at the moment
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Just wired in a live cut off switch to the dash, so I can turn them on\off at will.
Issue fixed. :rimshot:
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Thanks bud.
Any idea on where the coolant sensors are\should be.
I've found the single pin between the rockers that controls the temp gauge.
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Ignore me, I must have wired up the rad fans with the engine up to temp, as today they stayed off until the engine reached 50% temp.
Two new issues thou.
Power Steering fluid is raising and lowering to massive degree's. At times it will suck an entire bottle of it and then spit it back out a few mins later.
Heater matrix isn't blowing hot air, only cold.
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Sounds like both have some bleeding issues.
Can't see why the matrix would stop receiving hot coolant ?.
Think dj had some major troubles bleeding pas and burnt out pump so be warned !.
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It's a leak somewhere but I'm not moving the car atm so the pump isn't under use, it should be ok. I do have a spare in the shed thou.
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Ran the car up to temp and left it sat there for around an hour today.
Rad was stone cold, so started to look into the coolant lines, but discovered that outside the fans radius the rad was 'normal' temps…
Highly recommended fans.
Need to replace the thermostat thou, no hot air is making it cold to work on :)
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Lori, how are you attempting to bleed the PAS?
It should be done with both front wheels off the ground with engine OFF (initially) Axle stands, chock BOTH rear wheels and handbrake ON
Just keep topping bottle up, turn S wheel from left to right about six times each side, slowly and pause at each end stop.
keep adding fluid until after each lock to lock session, the level does'nt raise or lower and remains between the two marks.
Stick at this bit, you might have to do it at least 3 times!!! like I did until level was constant.
Now START the car allow it to idle. DONT REV!! now turn the wheel lock to lock again but this time dont hold it at the stops for MORE THAN FIVE seconds or you will overheat the pump and cause damage to rack seals!!! Bribe an assistant with hot fluids of the drinking kind to watch and listen the whole time you do this with engine running, looking for puddles, smoke, leaks and listening for squeals and squeeks from pump and belt??
When all looks well? drop the car to ground and give it a test drive…. don't be tempted to test it static with engine running without FORWARD MOTION! because A) It puts undue strain on steering and suspension parts and B) there will be no cooling effect on the system from air hitting the cooler so heat will build up quickly.
Is the tension on the PAS drive belt correct? :oops:
I didnt lose a lot of fluid when I attacked mine cos I had two rubber bungs at the ready to block pipes and raised them above the reservoir level when I cleaned my PAS cooler up! :D
Hope you get this sorted soon fella and ya cooling prob too, you deserve some reward for your efforts so far? :P
kev b.
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Oh just had another thought Lori. (after thought!)
Having both wheels in the air with the engine running will probably throw up the ABS warning light!…. as the rear wheels will be static and due to oil drag in the diff/gearbox from the primary input shaft rotation, the front wheels will spin ( TAKE CARE WITH THIS ) (OS anticlockwise, NS clockwise, I think??)…..confusing the ABS ecu!!!
panic not though :shock: when you drop car to ground and restart, the light SHOULD remain OFF as normal? :P
kev b.