Project: Gray Death.
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I wouldn't like to be where you are at mo! I'd have no hair left….....! :shock:
You say you have 2 EGR valves????? :? Do you mean valves or solenoids?. But then you say "As I don't have an EGR.. Lets have some fun" ??? confused.com!
The K8 has two solenoids, one with a blue dot on it and one with a red dot.
They are joined together with a link pipe and they share a 'VENT'.
The K8 has only 1 EGR valve whose operation is controlled by these 2 solenoids.I'm assuming the KLZE is similar?
If a solenoid has three unions (Take offs) usually one of them is a VENT, These VENTS can be open to atmosphere? but you run the risk of them sucking in dirt and debris and becoming defective! they are normally all joined together with a common pipe which enters the air cleaner box supplying filtered VENT air to the vacuum system.
That's where the 'gray' one in your diagram goes?
Your purge valve pipe needs a small union drilling into the induction manifold AFTER the Throttle body as it appears the KLZE is without this take off?
Fuel in your air intake and EGR solenoid?????.... sounds like the diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator has failed????
I think you have everything you need to get this project running? the problem is, everything that was disconnected from K8 should have been labelled properly and likewise with the KLZE!!!! :( :( :(
I'ts very difficult to give 'direction' without the engine bay being in front of you, while giving it!
It would be a shame not to carry on with this and get to the end as I've heard the KLZE is a 'HOOT' of a conversion!!! :D
kev b.
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I think I've looked at this for two long, blackmex. I'm sure the answer is simple, but you know what's it's like when you keep looking at it, you just can't see it.
EGR:
Just to clear it up. I have one EGR on the block & one on the inlet.
The one on the block, I've got a blanking plate being delivered from the states to use so I can remove it.
The one on the inlet, is staying and will be bypassed (Thou I do have to extend the loom connector for it)The one thing I just don't 'get' is the amount of loom I'm missing but meh, I might just pack it up for the Winter and say balls to it.
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Perfect example above:
Take a look at the pipes I've highlighted in red.
The pipe off the top of the front rocker isn't running to the nipple on the top of the TB, and the downwards nipple off the bottom of the TB is running to the block, not the thermostat.
Both way's I've been told are 'correct'
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Well, the T section could be connect by drilling a hole in your aftermarket intake. (or.. like a lot of people, connect it to an oil catch tank).
Front valve cover really needs to connect to the top of your intake.
Lower part of TB should be rear head + thermostat housing. I'm not sure if it mattheres what one goes where.
If those hoses are connected to somewhere else, they are in the wrong place.
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The break booster pipe is connected to here:
The 'T' I've just placed where the break booster should go for now.
It tries to fire.. but nothing yet, might be due to lack of battery and using a ford fessy to jump it.
Also, found another random pipe under the dizzy lol
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I must confess fella having only ever worked on a K8 and I've only ever viewed a running KLZE underbonnet once!….. these images look foreign to me :shock: The control systems on both seem to be very similar? but their position, wiring and plumbing are all very different :(
I would do a forum 'search' for "KLZE swaps" for example and then maybe give the author of the 'search results' original posts a 'POKE' or try sending them a PM?
Also If it's reluctant to start?.... have you done a 'fault code pull' ? it may point to an area that you've missed and further narrow down your options regarding pipework etc???
It looks and sounds like you've plowed some time and resources into this project ?? :o It would be a crying shame not to at least get it running! It would sell on better that way. :(
I'm getting a headache just looking at pics!!! :(
BOL kev b. :respect:
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come to southampton and visit your sister lori and you can go over mine in person and figure it all out and have a hot cuppa too :cheers:
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I wouldn't run the brakebooster from there, your vris can interfier with the vacuum.
You could also just use a small (air) filter on the other end of the T. I've driven like that for many years.
Where does that small pipe connect to ? The big is the coolant from radiator but the other one ?
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that T piece should run into the side of the induction kit you have there and not to the back
that pipe on top of the TB should run to the charcoal filter at the back, dunno where it goes currently
Is that plug not meant to go to the rear O2 sensor n the rear down pipe
the pipe from the master cylnder has a one way valve in it make sure its the right way round or you will have no brakes
That vacuum connector that you have the T peice connected to that connects to the little valve in the top of front rocker
That vacuum connector is for the brake servo on left hand drive in the previous pics that is why mazda connect it to the front rocker in RHDYou can get away with a little mini moto filter on that T piece as it is meant to connect before the TB through the induction kit and all it does is recycle oil vapour back into the engine but its not necessary
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@daced73a27=whitefinish:
I wouldn't run the brakebooster from there, your vris can interfier with the vacuum.
You could also just use a small (air) filter on the other end of the T. I've driven like that for many years.
Where does that small pipe connect to ? The big is the coolant from radiator but the other one ?
The only reason I put the BB there, is that I never removed the pipe from the BB unit before the swap.. I'll move it over on the weekend to the right place.
Will pick up a Minimoto air filter and add it on to the T section.
The small pipe.. no idea, only found it when I removed the dizzy :confused:
@daced73a27=djmarcopolo:
1 - that T piece should run into the side of the induction kit you have there and not to the back
2 - that pipe on top of the TB should run to the charcoal filter at the back, dunno where it goes currently
3 - Is that plug not meant to go to the rear O2 sensor n the rear down pipe
4 - the pipe from the master cylnder has a one way valve in it make sure its the right way round or you will have no brakes
5 - That vacuum connector that you have the T peice connected to that connects to the little valve in the top of front rocker
6 - That vacuum connector is for the brake servo on left hand drive in the previous pics that is why mazda connect it to the front rocker in RHDYou can get away with a little mini moto filter on that T piece as it is meant to connect before the TB through the induction kit and all it does is recycle oil vapour back into the engine but its not necessary
Yikes…
1 - Yup, just put it there to move it out the way.
2 - That pipe connects to the small nipple that fits into the front rocker. (Take a look at the image above with the red piping)
3 - Maybe... Mine aren't installed as of yet.
4 - Master Cylinder?
5 - Isn't that what you just said to attach the minimoto air filter to?
6 - What one?
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Little one on top of throttle body goes to purge solenoid then charcoal filter
see thin green pipe in picthen front rocker goes to the upward vacuum pipe on inlet at rear - see black pipe
T peice should go to induction - see green pipe on mine goes to oil catch then induction
4 master cylinder / brake servo at rear with pipe to inlet
6 that connector is the one that my black pipe runs to from front rocker :)
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The little pipe aside the rad bottom hose, does it go into/come out of front cylinder head?
It looks like its heading towards rad top or header tank/swirl pot? Is it a coolant circuit leading to one of these to prevent air locks around the front cylinder head??Or is it a water to oil cooler feed/return as on K8 (near oil filter) but routed a different way around engine?
Again, above is all speculation as I'm a KLZE virgin :shock:
kev b.
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@1b515eeceb=djmarcopolo:
Little one on top of throttle body goes to purge solenoid then charcoal filter
see thin green pipe in picBeen told that before, then they saw that the 'little' nipple on the TB is 4x the size of the input on the purge.. so I need to step down the pipe from around 8mm to 2mm.
@1b515eeceb=djmarcopolo:
then front rocker goes to the upward vacuum pipe on inlet at rear - see black pipe
So where everyone else is saying to run the Brakebooster to?
@1b515eeceb=djmarcopolo:
4 master cylinder / brake servo at rear with pipe to inlet
The one that now shares a nipple with both the Brakebooster, and the pipe from the front rocker cover? So I need another 't' section.
@1b515eeceb=djmarcopolo:
6 that connector is the one that my black pipe runs to from front rocker :)
I'll assume you mean the pipe that goes from the front and rear rockers, to the T then the 3rd goes to the air intake.
This is entirety my point.
Everyone I speak to offers a new and unique way to wire this fucking thing up.
Fuck it, been offered a 323 for less then £300. Screw thing thing, I'm done. Maybe one day, two people who have done this will agree on how it goes back together.
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Oh just another pointer fella, (largish one!)
rather than fit a small filter to the 'T' piece I would purchase an oil catch tank as djmarcopolo's, as some tanks have a filter attached anyway it will keep engine bay cleaner and add interest?. :D
Often overlooked is the fact that if you just connect a 'T' piece and add a filter to the two cam cover breathers (front and rear) and also have your PCV still connected to the TB AFTER the throttle valve, you are actually opening your plenum chamber to atmoshere at idle and part throttle openings via the front cam covers, two connections!!!!
This will cause erratic idling speeds and fueling issues as there will be unmetered air entering the engine.
Better to connect the PCV to a catchtank and block off the connection at the throttle body, then any cylinder blow by gases from crank case will make their way to your catch tank via 3 routes and your engine vacuum will be unaffected resulting in a smoother, cleaner more responsive V6!!! :P
You could actually remove the PCV altogether and plug up the top hole in the front cam cover!! still remembering to block it off at the TB also.
PS Catch tanks need checking and emptying on a regular basis! especially in cold weather!! :(
Hope this helps in some way WHEN you get it running
kev b.
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@f3ac464d6d=blackmexyv6:
Hope this helps in some way WHEN you get it running
Thanks but nope.
My interest in this is gone now, it's been going for months but I never really let it get to me.
The last few weeks, I've had almost 10 people tell me 10 different ways on how to connect some pipes… Doesn't fill me with confidence, hope or joy and I can live without it sitting in the car park rusting away.
And besides, I can strip it, almost as fast as two people can disagree on what goes where. :rimshot:
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SHAME!! but "you are your own boss"… "pastures new" and all that :)
Good luck with ya 323 venture ?
kev b.
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Thanks Kev,
This was my third MX3.. Won't be getting another now, time to move on.
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If my car was on the road I would come up and sort it out, I will get to the garage tomorrow and look at your issues and photo them
You are 99% there so why give up now
A lot of your advice has been from USA and the LHD versions hav different piping system due to the brake servo being on the other side
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Is it just vaccum & electrical connection issues that are stopping it from completion or do you have other items to finish ?.
Is the dash swap all done and ready?.
As dj said I would drive up but my tax has expired and I'm working 7 days a week until December now :(
Plus your bloody miles away lol!.
I only get 500 miles a year on the insurance :(
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Sorry for the tantrum guys… this thing just pisses me off at times.
@f877c89227=Garfy1981:
Is it just vaccum & electrical connection issues that are stopping it from completion or do you have other items to finish ?.
Mainly.
A few other small things,
1 - Work out the wiring setup for the 4 pin 02 sensors.
2 - Refit exhaust. (need to chop some off)
3 - Weld the drivers side sill
4 - Fit the Airbag Steering wheel
5 - Add coolant.
6 - Look at the drivers side drive shaft, Can't find anything to lock it in with, so it's just pushed in…@f877c89227=Garfy1981:
Is the dash swap all done and ready?.
Dash is 99% done.
Rewire the hazard light switch. (currently disabled)
Swap the HAVC panel for one with AC button. (Yes mine has it)That's it. The first and only (that we know of) UK shell with the import dash style.
Fooking proud of that tbh.
Other then that, it's in the shop for some exhaust goodness and a terraclean.
Look gents, I appreciate the offers driving up here to help and yeah, you could help but if I'd feel way to bad for anyone to do that, so please don't.
Skype video calls are just as good if ya use the service and ya willing.