Anyone know the wherabouts of this MX-3 I used to own?
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I know I nearly got that for £550 when I saw that advertised :x
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I wanted it for the smoothed doors and boot and bonnet was gonna part out the rest.
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@797ea9fecf=ukmx3admin:
I wanted it for the smoothed doors and boot and bonnet was gonna part out the rest.
Don't it be cheaper to do yourself, or is time the factor?
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A couple of reasons really.
If I got the car at what I wanted to pay i'd keep the parts I wanted and part it out for more than I paid, so yes it would be cheaper than doing myself. But it would take longer.
I used to borrow the TIG and MIG welders from the garage I worked in, but I moved to somerset so no can do anymore.
The place i'm renting now is part of a 17th century manor house, and I think it would probably finish off all the dodgy electrics if I tried plugging in a MIG welder.
After my accident I find welding really hurts my head, can't explain it but it does. Triggers a migrane, though it is getting better so I'll be back welding one day.
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Do they have to be welded flush then could you not use a chemical metal epoxy resin with a piece of alu/mild steel on the back then fill over the top?!
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Welding is easier to get a good result.
You basically want to end up with as little filler as possible.
If you fill it, it will either shrink or move eventually and a year down the line it will be obvious.
Just weld it flush one spot at a time or you will warp it with too much heat, then grind all the welds flat so you can't tell it was ever there, then corse fill it, sand flat, then fine fill it, sand flat, then etch primer inside and out, then sand outside flat and repeat fine filler if needed, then primer again, then oxide primer on inside, then decent 2 pack paint on the inside at least 2 coats with a day to dry for each. Then it on to whatever finish your using.
Its the right way to do it if you want it to last, if your going to go through the hassle of painting it properly why scimp on a couple days work.
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Sounds good they do look great must admit.
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Do what foxy said. There are some great products about nowadays for 'glueing' metal to one another, Afterwards if you use an epoxy filler instead of a polyester, I guarantee it will not move or shrink back, the stuff I've used before took 24hrs to fully cure and went off as hard as concrete, piece of pish
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Got any brand names for what you used? links etc? was it definately good a couple years down the road? need any special primer?
Might be a good fallback option if I can't get hold of a welder.
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Think I've got some lying around at my unit, will check and let you know, you can have it FOC, you just pay postage. its normally around £40-£50 :shock:
Its a marine epoxy filler made by international paints, mixes 1-1, good stuff, I used it when I de badged and de locked my old 306 gti6 many moons ago, so can speak from experience that it is good :wink:
As for the glue/metal bonder, its made by 3M, will find out exact product name and let you know….....