More problems (hesitating again)
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Ok, you all know the problem i had before that turned out the VAF sensor. dont worry that is still good BUT… i have a real bad hesitation when the engine is cold. I think the idle actuator might be gone as the idle fluctuates from about 600rpm-1,100rpm (when warm) but would this cause hesitation (and i mean real hesitation, got stuck at 4k earlier) when the engine is cold. as always your thoughts are greatly appreciated. anyone had a similar situation please post up :)
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I have exactly the same problem at the moment but its only if I boot it when its just started
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yeah if i really put my foot down it just pulls back, its more of an annoyance than a problem as the V6 warms up pretty quick but still niggling me. i want it to be running 100% and also still getting the deceleration problem (when warm) but i am guessing that would be the Idle actuator.
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Bizarre mine is doing exactly this as well, especially more so if its damp or been raining all day/night
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didnt you say you adjusted the TSS the other day? doing that will squiff your TPS settings, know you had the hesitation before, but, well, just bringing it to your attention
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yeah i did adjust the stop screw but as the idle is fluctuating its basically back to where it was. its more of an annoyance as when its warm there is no problems other then the lunging forward when taking my foot off the accelerator which i put down to the idle control valve (i think)
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Did you ever get the faultcodes? Sounds like a broken crank shaft sensor or something..
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yeah i read the codes before, threw up EGR (which i knew as i bypassed it) IAT and VAF failure which is now all fixed
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the hunting is often the IAC, it's a POS IMO. LOL @ my TLAs…
Are the codes clear now then other than EGR?
Only adjust idle screw in diagnostic mode
Do the various calibrations in diagnostic mode:
TPS - feeler gauge at x thickness at throttle stop, fan should be off, feeler gauge at 2x thickness fan should come on, I forget the thicke
Timing (rotate disty, use timing light, aim for 10deg BTDC)
Idle adjustment screw
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@dce65a7a33=Marco:
the hunting is often the IAC, it's a POS IMO. LOL @ my TLAs…
Are the codes clear now then other than EGR?
Only adjust idle screw in diagnostic mode
Do the various calibrations in diagnostic mode:
TPS - feeler gauge at x thickness at throttle stop, fan should be off, feeler gauge at 2x thickness fan should come on, I forget the thicke
Timing (rotate disty, use timing light, aim for 10deg BTDC)
Idle adjustment screwI have no idea what you just said but i will research it once i picked the misses up lol. yeah i did the screw in diagnostics mode as i thought that would be best (ten and gnd)
I am hoping its just the idle actuator as its a fairly cheap part to buy. is there a disconnection test i can try. I am more worried about the lunging forward in my seat when taking my foot off the accelerator. 1. cos its really annoying and 2. because it makes me look like a shit driver pmsl
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also, checked my oil earlier :oops: It was a little way below the minimum line again. hoping it may cure my hesitation problem i topped it up but to no avail. just a bit less tappy now :(
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mine is exactly the same, it tries to die if you boot it but normal driving its fine, have too many other jobs to do this winter before I get to that lol
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@d8dad6bedf=Marco:
the hunting is often the IAC, it's a POS IMO. LOL @ my TLAs…
Are the codes clear now then other than EGR?
Only adjust idle screw in diagnostic mode
Do the various calibrations in diagnostic mode:
TPS - feeler gauge at x thickness at throttle stop, fan should be off, feeler gauge at 2x thickness fan should come on, I forget the thicke
Timing (rotate disty, use timing light, aim for 10deg BTDC)
Idle adjustment screwjust browsed through the page, Jesta did all that when i went up to visit one fine day. only reason i had to readjust the idle screw (not TSS) was because of all the new bits i had put on (VAF, Plugs, Leads, Disty cap, Rotor arm) and it was idling a little too high so i bridged ten and gnd and turned the screw down to about 700rpm, hoping for an 800rpm baseline idle. as stated before though it fluctuates pretty badly.
I dont think my knowledge of mechanics will allow me to start messing with the timing etc lol. I wouldnt have the first clue what to do, let alone own a timing light :lol: its all just little niggles but i do really want it to be running 100%. I am trying to look after this baby ;)
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ok, looks like i am off work this week due to chest infection so i thought i would have a good look over the car.
still cant find any air leaks so i am fairly confident i can rule that out
I have unplugged what i believe to be the IAC (guessing its right as it didnt want to start too easily) idle started from cold was 1000rpm. waited a couple of mins before i took it out for a spin and pressed throttle in that time to help warm the engine a bit. I would like to say it fixed the problem but unfortunately not. It IS better when unplugged but there is still a hesitation there. It seems to rev easier (could just be me though as i am driving the fiat everyday now)
once it had warmed up the idle is around the 600rpm mark, but again that can be anywhere up to 900rpm so it is still fluctuating :evil: getting seriously pissed with this car now. I would attempt to read the codes again but i lost my LED!so if anyone has any other ideas would be much appreciated. I am hoping its not the IAT sensor as i have just replaced my VAF with one off of DJ :(
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IAC has a white plug going into a black plastic cylinder. It is underneath the throttle body, has two coolant hoses (in/out) and is held onto the bottom of the TB by four screws.
Adjusting timing is as simple as rotating the distributor. However the ECU is very good at correcting timing, so it is unlikely to be the issue.
The first thing to recognise you booting it is probably the TPS, then the VAF. Have you tried adjusting it? Does your TB cable have the correct amount of slack?
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as far as i am aware everything is ok with the VAF and TB.
I have just been out again for some more testing…... dont know if you remember one of my first thoughts was the VRIS #1 not activating. I did the paper test and guess what.... VRIS #1 is not activating. i know this would not cause the lunging forward on deceleration but that has gone since i disconnected the IAC, however, this would cause the hesitation I have been feeling or at least part of it. I will go through the manual and find the solenoids and swap them over to see if low range rpm lacks the hesitation and high rpm is effected. unless you could point me in the right direction there marco lol. that manual is bloody long :lol:
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P.S
could (i think i know the answer) this have something to do with the little pipe that i snapped off the back of the engine while changing my spark plugs. just traced where the pipes go and it goes into a T piece that seems to connect VRIS 1 and 2. surely 2 wouldnt work either if this was the case. i superglued the pipe back on trying not to get any in the pipe itself
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I believe this is the pipe that snapped (the nipple or whatever you would call it) is flush with the metalwork so no hope of getting it out again. It seems to be attached to one of the vacuum chambers
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scratch the VRIS comment. just checked it after trying to swap solenoids over (and realizing i didnt have enough cable) plugged them back in and VRIS is opening. checked it when the car was stood still and both open and close as they should
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Dont you remember the diagram I coloured in for you? That showed you the barb that the pipe connects to which feeds into the vacuum reservoir, we discussed bypassing it.
Could just buy my car, Im selling up cos Ive fallen in love with Mitsubishi 3000GT's, plus, people actually make stuff for them unlike the woefully unpopular MX-3, which totally sucks cos its a good car so I dont get why its not popular.
