More problems (hesitating again)
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the hunting is often the IAC, it's a POS IMO. LOL @ my TLAs…
Are the codes clear now then other than EGR?
Only adjust idle screw in diagnostic mode
Do the various calibrations in diagnostic mode:
TPS - feeler gauge at x thickness at throttle stop, fan should be off, feeler gauge at 2x thickness fan should come on, I forget the thicke
Timing (rotate disty, use timing light, aim for 10deg BTDC)
Idle adjustment screw
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@dce65a7a33=Marco:
the hunting is often the IAC, it's a POS IMO. LOL @ my TLAs…
Are the codes clear now then other than EGR?
Only adjust idle screw in diagnostic mode
Do the various calibrations in diagnostic mode:
TPS - feeler gauge at x thickness at throttle stop, fan should be off, feeler gauge at 2x thickness fan should come on, I forget the thicke
Timing (rotate disty, use timing light, aim for 10deg BTDC)
Idle adjustment screwI have no idea what you just said but i will research it once i picked the misses up lol. yeah i did the screw in diagnostics mode as i thought that would be best (ten and gnd)
I am hoping its just the idle actuator as its a fairly cheap part to buy. is there a disconnection test i can try. I am more worried about the lunging forward in my seat when taking my foot off the accelerator. 1. cos its really annoying and 2. because it makes me look like a shit driver pmsl
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also, checked my oil earlier :oops: It was a little way below the minimum line again. hoping it may cure my hesitation problem i topped it up but to no avail. just a bit less tappy now :(
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mine is exactly the same, it tries to die if you boot it but normal driving its fine, have too many other jobs to do this winter before I get to that lol
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@d8dad6bedf=Marco:
the hunting is often the IAC, it's a POS IMO. LOL @ my TLAs…
Are the codes clear now then other than EGR?
Only adjust idle screw in diagnostic mode
Do the various calibrations in diagnostic mode:
TPS - feeler gauge at x thickness at throttle stop, fan should be off, feeler gauge at 2x thickness fan should come on, I forget the thicke
Timing (rotate disty, use timing light, aim for 10deg BTDC)
Idle adjustment screwjust browsed through the page, Jesta did all that when i went up to visit one fine day. only reason i had to readjust the idle screw (not TSS) was because of all the new bits i had put on (VAF, Plugs, Leads, Disty cap, Rotor arm) and it was idling a little too high so i bridged ten and gnd and turned the screw down to about 700rpm, hoping for an 800rpm baseline idle. as stated before though it fluctuates pretty badly.
I dont think my knowledge of mechanics will allow me to start messing with the timing etc lol. I wouldnt have the first clue what to do, let alone own a timing light :lol: its all just little niggles but i do really want it to be running 100%. I am trying to look after this baby ;)
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ok, looks like i am off work this week due to chest infection so i thought i would have a good look over the car.
still cant find any air leaks so i am fairly confident i can rule that out
I have unplugged what i believe to be the IAC (guessing its right as it didnt want to start too easily) idle started from cold was 1000rpm. waited a couple of mins before i took it out for a spin and pressed throttle in that time to help warm the engine a bit. I would like to say it fixed the problem but unfortunately not. It IS better when unplugged but there is still a hesitation there. It seems to rev easier (could just be me though as i am driving the fiat everyday now)
once it had warmed up the idle is around the 600rpm mark, but again that can be anywhere up to 900rpm so it is still fluctuating :evil: getting seriously pissed with this car now. I would attempt to read the codes again but i lost my LED!so if anyone has any other ideas would be much appreciated. I am hoping its not the IAT sensor as i have just replaced my VAF with one off of DJ :(
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IAC has a white plug going into a black plastic cylinder. It is underneath the throttle body, has two coolant hoses (in/out) and is held onto the bottom of the TB by four screws.
Adjusting timing is as simple as rotating the distributor. However the ECU is very good at correcting timing, so it is unlikely to be the issue.
The first thing to recognise you booting it is probably the TPS, then the VAF. Have you tried adjusting it? Does your TB cable have the correct amount of slack?
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as far as i am aware everything is ok with the VAF and TB.
I have just been out again for some more testing…... dont know if you remember one of my first thoughts was the VRIS #1 not activating. I did the paper test and guess what.... VRIS #1 is not activating. i know this would not cause the lunging forward on deceleration but that has gone since i disconnected the IAC, however, this would cause the hesitation I have been feeling or at least part of it. I will go through the manual and find the solenoids and swap them over to see if low range rpm lacks the hesitation and high rpm is effected. unless you could point me in the right direction there marco lol. that manual is bloody long :lol:
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P.S
could (i think i know the answer) this have something to do with the little pipe that i snapped off the back of the engine while changing my spark plugs. just traced where the pipes go and it goes into a T piece that seems to connect VRIS 1 and 2. surely 2 wouldnt work either if this was the case. i superglued the pipe back on trying not to get any in the pipe itself
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I believe this is the pipe that snapped (the nipple or whatever you would call it) is flush with the metalwork so no hope of getting it out again. It seems to be attached to one of the vacuum chambers
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scratch the VRIS comment. just checked it after trying to swap solenoids over (and realizing i didnt have enough cable) plugged them back in and VRIS is opening. checked it when the car was stood still and both open and close as they should
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Dont you remember the diagram I coloured in for you? That showed you the barb that the pipe connects to which feeds into the vacuum reservoir, we discussed bypassing it.
Could just buy my car, Im selling up cos Ive fallen in love with Mitsubishi 3000GT's, plus, people actually make stuff for them unlike the woefully unpopular MX-3, which totally sucks cos its a good car so I dont get why its not popular.
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I share your love of 3000GT's or GTO's whatever they are actually called lol. absolutely stunning car and the non turbo i believe to be reasonable to insure too (but i am becoming one of the "oldies" now). I also know your feeling about the MX-3. £140 for one rear wheel bearing is a bit steep in anyones book :P I have been looking at classic Porsche's lately….. also really want a 200sx touring or any 300zx. I do love the 3 alot but even stock parts can be hard to find and WILL be expensive when you do find them.
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:) luckily had hassle free with mine, but parts are nigh on impossible to find, almost everything has to come from ford probe store, other than that, your stuck unless you can find something abroad, which only increases the price anyway. But theres bugger all aftermarket stuff for them, unless you want some extorianately prices crappy fake projectors from the USA, or a chinese air filter, your out of luck, exhausts come in a flavour of standard or shit quality sportex bacl box, and as you say, any replacement parts are high priced and hard to find. Thats why this forum is a let down, not cos of the people, but cos of the lack of anything anyone can do to it, theres no personalisation or real mods, outside of the usual 'drop a KLZE' in it threads, when was the last time anything unique happened to one of these cars, no one but gulfy has got a one of spray, no ones got any body kits, and about the only person whose actually tuned one is Marco, but I cant even imagine the lengths hes had to go to in doing so.
Im not trying to sound like a chav with the whole bodywork stuff, but theyre really isnt anything out theyre that caters for these cars, you can get stainless headers for a Vaux Astra 1990 readily on ebay, but for a sports coupe v6 called an mx3, HA! no chance, a selection of glow guages, ht leads, and either a sportex or a remus back box is about the limit.
Witht he GTO/3000GT (3000GT is the UK version) I found several flip up projector conversion sets in the UK, for sale by shops not hard to come by used ones for less than £20 quid, and full stainless exhausts from the headers back for less than 200quid, decat? sure no problem, yours, brand new, £34 please. GAH, if the MX3 had stuff available for it then Id likely hold onto it for another year or so, but sourcing parts is a nightmare, and expensive, plus there are cars that get better MPG with more BHP, most of the MX3s are getting about 25mpg, GTO twin turbo gets 20-25 town and 20-30 dual/motorway yet is a load more beefy, and has close to 300bhp and I can insure an imnported one for a mere 200quid a year more than tha mx3. No question, MX3 is going in spring next year
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well i expect you to keep in touch when you go mate, and by next summer i wanna come over and see it looking like this
;)I do know what you mean with the parts, OE or aftermarket, its all expensive. I bought a universal induction pipe the other week and guess what…. it doesnt fit the MX-3 pmfsl! when you do decide to sell i may be interested in a few bits on your car ;) some certain pipework under the bonnet and some other pipework under the car lol
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sadly I took all the pipework that was in my shed to the local scrap yard when I moved, so I cant part with anything thats on the car as I have nothing to fit in its place. Make your own induction piping, thats what I did, cost me about 40quid inc silicone fittings
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I have a piece of pipe just need to cut it to length lol.
So what is the BEST way to bypass the EGR valve. all i did last time was plug both ends of the vacuum lines. I dont want to totally remove it in case it is working fine but am willing to plug it again, as long as it is the right way to do it.
That said, i know that the EGR valve does not work when the engine is cold so this cannot be causing my power decrease can it?
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found my LED so went out today to check codes, it threw up the same ones as before (oops i forgot to reset the ECU lol) reset the ECU and went for a burn to let the car warm up a bit with everything plugged in (iac and egr) still obviously very hesitant.
got back, read the codes and.. nothing! according to my ECU there is nothing wrong with my car, even though when driving it a min ago it took about 5 seconds to get from 3000rpm to 4000rpm in second gear, that should take less than a second!!!! maybe my ECU is going wrong…
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if its hesatating from start and very slow to accelerare I would check plugs and for oil in the plug sockets, and maybe do the filters, blocked air filter does the same and change the fuel filter just in case you have been running it on the orange light and all the sand and bits have been sucked into it
also go to tescos garage, when you are in there get some redex ( its 50p a bottle in my tesco garage), fill the tank to the top and throw in 2 bottles of the stuff for a pound and take it for a motorway burn at 70 mph to see if the injectors are getting blocked or coked up
if you have it and the vacuum system is all air tight look at injectors too, that causes massive hesitation on diesels or not even run over 20mph if one is blocked
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can you hear it miss-firing?
