4. Knock

Knock

  • Y

    will be a standard thread im sure, lefty loosie righty tighty.
    Can you not take it to a local friendly garage and get them to uncrack it for you?

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  • D

    they are standard thread, its probably just welded itself on from corrosion and heat

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  • C

    @582d41cff9=youdirtyfox:

    will be a standard thread im sure, lefty loosie righty tighty.
    Can you not take it to a local friendly garage and get them to uncrack it for you?

    if I cant do it this weekend, then I will take it down the road. I wouldnt say they were a friendly garage, but if I ask nicely they might do it for me…..

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  • M

    I take it you have tried a big long scaffold bar to get some leverage?

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  • C

    @a6b7cd2a5c=mx3gulf:

    I take it you have tried a big long scaffold bar to get some leverage?

    yup….broke my 1/2" breaker bar, bent the bar too......!

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  • D

    holy shit that is tight lol

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  • C

    bought 3/4" breaker bar and appropriate impact socket, took all of 20 seconds and I hardly had to try, very chuffed….

    now i just got to work out how to swap the CV joint!

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  • C

    ok, spent a while studying and figured out how to swap my CV. what I did find, is that the old one was MISSING the circlip, which I believe explains the knocking noise and drive shaft movement, because now, its solid. I am also missing one of the two bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone, so I need to replace that before putting everything back together and torquing up!!

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  • D

    you may find that the circlip came off with the joint itself. glad you managed to get it off though bud, congrats :)

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  • C

    I did wonder that Daniel, but I searched everywhere…there just wasnt a clip! I suspect that they changed this CV joint some time ago, and didnt bother fitting the circlip, and at the same time, not bothering to secure the ball joint with the two required bolts to the wishbone...shoddy work!

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  • C

    knackers.

    I cant get the ball joint back in!!!

    I have tried and tried, but I feel I am doing something wrong? Basically, its like I need to tilt the hub so that I can line up the ball joint, but it wont go in.

    I even tried removing the ball joint (as there was already a bolt missing) and it still wont lin eup, we are talking a couple of mm.

    what am I doing wrong???

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  • Y

    are you trying to fit a new ball joint? As I think there are two sizes of pin.
    early/late 17/19mm I think?

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  • C

    well, its all going steadily wrong, and I could really do with some advice!

    I managed to get the ball joint in place last night, after removing the two hub nuts that join to the suspension. It was really hard, i had to jack the hub up to align with the suspension so I could refit the bolts. I torqued it up this evening, and was going to drive off when whirrrrr…..feels like the dive shaft is just spinning.

    I jacked it up again onto axel stands (both sides) and the side i have been working on is really hard to turn...

    what on earth have I dont wrong now???

    I can turn it, and the drive shaft does turn, but its REAL difficult.... as if im doing it with the breaks on!

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  • Y

    Is it not suppose to be tight and will bed in?

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  • C

    I dunno, all I know is the wheel wont turn if I try to drive it, I can hear something spinning though, I assume the drive shaft….??

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  • C

    ok dudes, I have an update on this.

    so last night I decided to yank the driveshaft out to inspect. TBH, everything looks ok, but I figured I need to be sure its seated in the gearbox correctly. I made a slight error and remove the inner cv boot, spilling the contents everywhere, so I need to remove the cup from the gearbox tonight to inspect.

    I am not sure what I have done wrong originally. Now its all apart, the hub turns easily (a little bit stiff but turns easily), the new cv seems good, and even the inner cv looks fine. I bought some new CV Moly grease and a utility bar to prise out the remaining part so I can put it all back together again.

    I managed to remove the tie rod end this time, which I didnt do before and this made life a lot easier. What I can understand is, why was the hub so tight the first time I put everything back together? The driveshaft didnt move at all, even though when the cv is remove from the hub, theres loads of give where the shaft enters the cup.

    I cant see what was spinning freely on the shaft when i first tried to drive it, so I am hoping to find out tonight when I remove the driveshaft cup, I kinda hope its missing a circlip, so thta I have an explaination.

    Is there a routine for putting everything back together??

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  • If you remove the CV cup, which is part of the axle stub, most of the gearbox oil will come out. There's not a lot to go wrong with that part either, so unless it looks destroyed it's not really worth taking out. Unless you want to change gearbox oil. There are two clips I can think of, one is the one that prevents the inner CV from popping out of the cup, which you should have already encountered. The other is a circlip on the end of the axle (the inner CV), which holds on the tripod looking CV.

    You have an open differential, if one wheel is somehow locked up the other will spin, like a one wheel burnout.

    For routine, check out the online manual http://mx-3.com/manuals/index.php

    So what you're saying is:
    -when the axle is removed from the hub it spins freely
    -when the axle is in the hub it is seized up?

    Is the axle rubbing the collar of the spindle/steering knuckle?
    Are there any problems around the brakes that would prevent rotation?

    You need to work out what's causing that side to lock up. Or spin without driving the wheel. Wish I could just see it first hand!

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  • D

    It could be that when you tried to knock the drive shaft back in and you didnt watch the circlip go in, it could have slid up the shaft into the grease and the rollers :wink:

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  • C

    thanks for the replies chaps, im really struggling here.

    ok, so, tonight I couldnt remove the CV cup that goes into the gearbox, but as you suggest Marco, it looks fine anyway. so, what I did was, filled the cv boot with some new moly CV grease, and shoved it back onto the CV cup, and tightened the jubilee clip. I didnt encounter any clip….where should this clip go to hold the tripod into the cup?? I dont think it had one to begin with....seems to have been held in by the orignal jubilee over the rubber boot, i was able to pull it right out easily....im talking about the inner cv here...

    I then attempted to peice everything back together. Now, the hub doesnt spin easy, but I am not sure how easy it should spin. I'd say it turns slowly with pressure. When I put the CV into the hub, again, it turns and the shaft turns, but slow. When I put the hub back onto the suspension mount, and insert the ball joint, it seizes up so that I need two hands to turn the hub and it sort of spins as if its mis shapen...

    I really dont know whats wrong here, but i think i have uncovered an issue. The ball joint originally looked to be missing the bolt that goes nearest the hub, I fitted a new bolt but made no difference. Also, when I refit the ball joint to the hub, I cant easily get the bolt through the knuckle...

    helps!!!! :(

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  • C

    spoke to a chap at work today, he thinks its the ball joint pulling everything out of square. I showed him a video i took of the noise i was getting before all this problem started, and he said yep, ball joint. Could this be true? could the ball joint affect the hub so much, that it would struggle to turn freely?

    I did note last night, that when i put the hub back onto the ball joint, the rubber was flat, and I couldnt get the bolt through the knuckle….

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