Knock
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struggling with this.
have had anothe rlook today, but cant begin to find anything out without taking everything apart, whihc i am afraid to do. I checked the end of the driveshaft that is nearest the gearbox, and tehres a little bit of movement there, but from the inner cv to outer cv, theres loads of movement.
some people have suggested missing circlip, but i cant remove the drive shaft to find out without leaving myself open to not being abel to fix it. Besides, looking at the hub nut, it looked hammered into the small groove where id expect a clip?
I dont want to get ripped off by a garage just yet, can anyone lend any more advice? do i bite the bullet and take to garage, or is it worth me attempting the job myself? If its a possibility that its just a missing clip that can fix the issue, then great I save a fortune, but its the movement of the shaft that has confused me…..both cv boots are fully intact (i cant remove one for a look because the clips are well fixed in place)
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@7104472769:
Yes. A clicking sound when turning is one of the classic symptoms of a worn or damaged "constant velocity" (CV) joint. Your car has four such joints on the two front axles: two inboard joints and two outboard joints. The outboard joints are the ones that make a clicking sound when they go bad.
Inside the joint are six steel balls, positioned in grooves between an inner race and an outer housing. The balls are held in position by a cage that looks something like a wide bracelet with windows or slots cut in it. When the joint is new, the balls fit tightly into the cage windows. But as the joint accumulates miles, the cage windows become worn and allow the balls to rattle around. The grooves in the inner race and outer housing also wear, which further contributes to noise.
When driving straight, a worn CV joint is usually quiet (constant noise would indicate a bad wheel bearing or other problem). But when the wheels are turned to either side, the joint bends causing the balls to click as they slide around in their cage windows and grooves. The noise is usually loudest when backing up with the wheels turned. Repacking the joint with grease won't help because the joint is worn and needs to be replaced.
I doubt its a missing circlip does sound like a worn outer CV. I would really try to remove the clip holding the boot in place, you should be able to squeeze it open or cut it off with some decent pliers and you can always use a zip tie or jubillee clip in place again just incase you cant reuse the old clip.
As regards to the hub nut that sounds like a castlenated nut, the stake will realease itself with enough force when undoing the nut which in my experience will require quite a bit of force ie a big breaker bar with a long pole on the end of it to gain enough leverage, usually easiest to take to a garage to get loosened with an air gun if you dont have said big breaker bar and pole.
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thanks for this, i will have a go at the outer cv first after inspection….
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The hub nut is a simple hex nut (32mm) with a collar that gets 'staked' into the groove of the axle. First try and straighten out the dent/stake by hammering something along the axle groove. I used a small but strong flat screwdriver. Then you need to secure the axle/wheel from rotation. I've done this a couple of ways:
- get someone in the car to stand on the brakes
- if you have wheels with a removable centre cap you crack it off with the car on the ground
- this is a bit nasty, and I probably shouldn't even say it, get a strong screwdriver, slot into the brake disc vents, let it rotate until the caliper stops it.
I then use a breaker bar, 6 sided 32mm socket and a peice of scaffolding to crack them. Try and keep the socket well seated and the bar nice and parallel, you don't want it to slip and round the nut off.
If you know someone with airtools get them to crack it off.
If you're really stuck you could dremel off the nut and split it.
I've also used heat (blow torch) and candle wax, but this is bad for the wheel bearing.
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cheers marco.
I am going to go down the scaffold pole route as you suggest with the car on the ground. Its bad timing, as I am getting an air compressor and impact wrench for xmas!
I am going to order a new CV and cross my fingers that this is the issue because I feel a bit more confident just doing the outer CV thanks to the advice here!
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guys, is this the correct CV?
its just a lot cheaper than everywhere else…....
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looks like it :wink:
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sweet, i will order it, very cheap just hope its good enough quality!
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yeah that defo looks like the one i replaced on my old mx3. good find btw, i will be getting one of these for my new one ;)
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ok chaps, the saga continues.
so, I cant get the damned hub nut loose!!!!
I need your advice. I have tried a little heat but i dont have a proper blow torch. I have so far broken one head on my 22" breaker bar, and also bent the same breaker bar, I have also tried this using a 4ft steel pole, which is very heavy.
so now, im stuck!
so I started looking at electric impact wrenches, will one of these do the trick??
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i used an air impact on mine so i guess an electric one would do the trick as long as it has enough juice
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ohhhh FFFS!!!!!!
cant undo the damn nut. tried everything I can ,minus impact wrench, now I am concerned even that wont budge it. I have SAT on the damn extension bar, and ALL I can achieve, is bending my breaker bar!!!
I cant decide if I should invest in a Clarke Impact Wrench and socket, or a blowtorch and dremel….?? help!!!
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I have seen my dad use his huge breaker bar, a 3m scaffold tube stood on it bouncing up and down to break it
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well, my breaker bar is fairly hefty, and i have a very hefty 4 ft pole, but i am not exactly a big lad!!
im going to have to get an impact wrench and see if that helps, oh, and a blow torch…
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sod it, just ordered an Electric Impact Wrench….....
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chaps.
got mi Impact Wrench, first try was a no go, but I kinda expected that :/
anyhooo, have sprayed penetrating oil on, and im going to buy a new 3/4" breaker bar, but, i need to double check, which way is the thread for the passenger front hub??
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as far as i am aware it is a standard thread mate but will have to double check with someone on here
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just thought, although I have chiselled out the wedge but is there anythign else to remove first? There doesnt look to be, but im worried I am trying to undo the nutt he wrong way or i have missed a circlip or something??
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will be a standard thread im sure, lefty loosie righty tighty.
Can you not take it to a local friendly garage and get them to uncrack it for you?
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they are standard thread, its probably just welded itself on from corrosion and heat
