Smoke!
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that does sound vacuum, it could be that some of the pipes have become hard and the joins on the end are just loose enough to let air through
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could well be, forgot to mention that sometimes when decelerating, ie take foot off the throttle, it will slowly ease down and the all of a sudden the engine will break really hard sometimes throwing me forward in my seat and locking the seatbelt. I thought it could be the induction kit but it was doing all this before i put that on. I will have a good look and listen tomorrow. there is so many bloody vac pipes on this engine!
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the big one could be the pipe from the inlet manifold to the top of the front rocker, those pipes can go hard and then they dont go tight on the inlet end also check the little inspection hatch one the inlet manifold, they have a paper gasket that can leak, worth gently removing and putting some gasket sealer on it
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back to this again, checked all pipes and all seem ok. cant hear any leak but i do have problems with my ears lol. the smoke appears to have come back and the hesitation is still there but it is definitely worse when it is cold. i get a serious lack before 4k (somewhere between 2500-4000rpm) and at 5k it is completely normal. if i was loaded i wouldnt mind but with the price of fuel at the moment i cant afford to be running over 5k all the time :lol:
Is it possible that it could be an engine mount or is this a classic sign of a VRIS solenoid failing.
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wait a min, have i overlooked the obvious! I will try cleaning the o2 sensors tomorrow by soaking in some petrol for a few hours. If this fixes my problem i will be kicking myself!
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RIGHT!!! Finally decided to read my codes today. I knew I would have one of them as i have bypassed the EGR valve so was expecting that. What i was not expecting was this
code no:
8: MAF/VAF sensor.
10: Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
16: EGR sensor.I wouldnt have thought the MAF is at fault, could this be being thrown up because of an induction kit of is it kerplunked.
when i took my MAF (to try the mx6 one i bought off here, bad idea) off i did hear something rattling around inside but i did in the MX6 one also so thought it was normal. maybe that one is fooked too lol.Intake air temp sensor. what in the fuck is that! could these problems be causing my hesitation and low fuel consumption? (i know the maf would cause hesitation but dont know how that would effect fuel, but unsure about the IAT as i have no idea what it is)
any help is greatly appreciated as always
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started a new topic dont reply here. reply in new thread
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got my new VAF today (thanks to keith, really appreciate your quick despatch) and after a shoet run to warm the car up I realise that the idle was a little low so i adjusted the TSS after bridging "ten and gnd" Idle is a little bit high now but better than before.
got in the car, went for a drive and it was alot better but still not 100% so i pulled over an checked the oil which was also very low (nothing new, my car drinks oil like my nan drinks tea) and HOOOBLOODYRAAA
No more hesitation (on warm start, havent tried it from cold yet) I am like a pig in shit at the moment :mrgreen:Thanks for all your input, it really is appreciated. not saying i wouldnt have been able to do it without you but it would have cost alot more in bits i didnt really need lol
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codes FTW. To think you could have had it fixed months ago :lol:
That's great though, I was pretty convinced after seeing your codes that'd help a lot!
Tell your mechanic a KLDE swap is pretty much the same as changing the same engine out/get a non lazy mechanic.
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I would do it myself but i just dont have the tools or the space, the DE is about the same size and sits in the same place so i cant see why he wont do it. Maybe i should just pay a garage to do it ;)
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@7b117009a6=daniel:
I would do it myself but i just dont have the tools or the space, the DE is about the same size and sits in the same place so i cant see why he wont do it. Maybe i should just pay a garage to do it ;)
Pity you are so far away, my dad loves a challenge lol and would probably have done it for £250 for the weekend lol
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i think that he thinks i will be running it on the K8 ecu but when i go and get the engine out of the car the probe ecu may slip into my pocket by accident ;)
the only thing i will be using from the K8 engine will be the throttle body and that will only be temporary until i get a probe one off ebay
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Why is the throttle body missing off DE?? If thats missing then I guess the VAF is too, you will need one of those as its a KL02 if I remember, good luck with finding a mechanic/garage to do it for reasonable money, people quoted me silly money, so I ended up doing it myself
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the car is in a scrappy and someone has taken the throttle body and air pipes. I already have a KL02 VAF sensor ;) (thinking ahead lol). I think the K8 throttle body will be a bit restrictive but it should run.
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Try on the probe forum, you will find a TB on there no problem I reckon
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i am in no hurry bud, like i said, unless i pursuade my mechanic it aint happening anyway lol. misses just took a new apprenticeship which means i am driving 120+ miles a day just to get her there and pick her up again. think i will look for a job nearer to where she is doing the course lol
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120 miles a day!! I don't even do that in a week, how much you spending a week in fuel? :roll:
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well now that my car is all economical again i think i will be spending about £125-140 a week. my poor K8 lol
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is it fair to assume that by the lack of updates the problem is all gone? Did you swap over your dizzy for a new one in the end? Reason I ask is I thought Id have a look at what was inside the spare dizzy unit I have as Ive never had a dizzy before as all bikes us coil packs, even my 1988 1cyl bike used a coil pack. Anyways, when I split the cap from the unit, I looked at the rotor and cap contacts, the rotor was coated in a black build up (carbon?) and the aluminium contacts on the cap had about 1mm layer of what appeared to be aluminium oxide (FYI it looks like limescale) poked a screwdriver at it and it flaked off but the aluminium under neither still had a thin coating, just enough to make it matt and not shiny metal.
So today I went out and checked the situation on the dizzy and rotor on my car, both were just as bad as the spare one, nudged the car forward enough for the rotor to be pointing upwards, got a piece of emery cloth (although fine sandpaper/wetndry/diamond knife sharpening stone would also work) and the started sanding the rotor contacts and dizzy contacts down until they were contaminant free, just enough for the metal to be clean otherwise itd probably be detrimental as itd increase the spark gap.
The car didnt have a problem before but did have a bit of a pop pop on deceleration, which I personally liked. Unfortunately thats now gone, but the whole engine seems to have found a few extra ponies from somewhere as it is absolutely spot on running, like I said, it was fine before, had no complaints or concerns, but now, well, you can definately feel an improvement in low end grunt and take off. Just thought id post up for you to try out, but on looking in the recent posts it appears your already aware, but never said if you did it, if you havent, its definately worth it, and its free, no need to remove the ht leads, you can do it with everything attached but just with the dizzy cap off and turned to face you, 10minute job, probably the most beneficial free thing you can do (to a car atleast)
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sorry bud was having a few problems thats why i havent been on for a while, yes i replaced the dizzy cap and rotor arm for a brand new one from DJ so i doubt its that. i am still looking into the leaky gasket side of things, but unfortunately lost my job a couple of weeks before christmas so i dont know how much longer this project will continue. I will keep the car but may sorn it until i can afford to run it again, which i really dont want to do as there is now only 27 SE's left on the roads of england.
anyway back to your original post lol, no the problem is not sorted and i dont know when it will be :(
