HOW TO - change rear brake pads and brake discs

[djmarcopolo]

The MX-3 rear brakes are one of the easiest cars in the world to change, the very simple design makes it possible for an absolute beginner to have a go.

You will need:
1 large flat screwdriver
Socket set or spanners - 12mm + 14mm
A Brake caliper rewind tool
Jack
wheel Brace
Copper grease
New pads + discs if required
If cleaning discs and not replacing with new
Angle grinder
Chipping hammer (preferable but normal hammer will work)
Protective goggles / glasses

Estimated time of job for both sides - 60-90 minutes

I will start from everything being removed and how it all goes together then taking apart is easy to figure out from this, just work backwards :D

A Completely stripped the hub assembly looks like this

Discs
When you remove your old discs you will find the pads may have not worn that evenly, usually the inside is worse than outside, as long as there is no heavy scoring from metal on metal or a large lip around the edges the discs can cleaned and put used again.
These discs came off a V6 where a pad had lost its lining and the pads were completely worn out.

The discs was not heavily grooved so to repair this use the chipping hammer to break all the old rust off around the face of the disc on both sides so its back to the metal, then using an angle grinder use a wire wheel to clean the rest of the surface rust off to make the disc shiny again, this will let the new pads bed in properly and the pads will take the roughness off the metal that the rust has left behind.

Fit the disc onto the studs, there are no screws needed here as the wheel nuts will retain the disc properly

Now fit the brake pad into the retainers, fit the brake pads in making sure the clips on the retainers are all in place as they came off with the pads facing each other, you will need to tap them in with a hammer as the fit should be very tight. Make sure you put copper grease on the ends of the pads as they will move along the retainer and can cause squealing if not properly lubed

Now carefully slide the pads and the retainer over the edge of the disc with the long stud at the bottom, take the 2 14mm bolts, coat the thread and the flat part of the bolt with copper grease then fit to the 2 holes on the rear of the hub and tighten.

Once tightened, fit the wishbone clip at the top with the hole in each pad then cover the rear of both pads with copper grease and also the stud at the bottom of the retainer.
This will give the small amount of movement you get some lubrication so the brakes do not squeal when applied

Now get the caliper and the brake winding tool, you need to wind the cylinder back in so it is flush with the caliper with the tool when almost flush

Now slowly turn the the cylinder so the 2 cut outs in the cylinder face are at 90 degrees to the caliper front. This has to be set like this because on the rear of the pads there is a button that fits onto one of these to stop the cylinder winding round.

Now slide the caliper onto the stud

When fully on simply swivel the caliper over the pads and fit the 12mm bolt that has been well covered in copper grease.

Once tightened put the brake pipe back into the clip on the strut and pull it upwards so the metal join comes up into the mount

Then tap lightly with the hammer, the small flat U clip back on into the groove around the outside of the fitting on top of the mount.

To remove this clip just tap it off with the screwdriver.

Now refit wheel and lower back down

Test the brakes and drive around putting your foot on the brake a lot and lifting the handbrake up and down while moving, this will bed the pads in quicker the more you use the brakes, especially if its booked for an MOT.

You may feel the brakes are a bit spongy for a couple of days but this is down to the pads bedding in and the cylinders working their way back out to their full position.