ECU remap on 1.8 V6?
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All a power boot valve does is increase your fuel pressure so that it runs a little richer..
If you want more power do it properly and swap the engine to a KLZE.
If you can't afford it in one go do it bit by bit, then drop the engine in.
- Buy an aftermarket airfilter big enough for a 2.5 litre engine (won't hinder your 1.8 at all)
- Fidenza Light weight Flywheel
- Ultra Lightweight Alloy wheels
- Branch Exhaust headers and Custom De-Cat
- Powerflow or Similar CAT Back exhaust system
- Upgrade your Clutch
- Buy a KLZE Probinator Chip and get the carrier installed in your ECU, but you have to run the stock chip until you put in the KLZE engine or it won't run
- Buy a new waterpump ready to fit to the KLZE when you get it.
- Buy a cambelt and pully kit
- Buy an auxhillery belt kit
- Buy some rocker cover seals
- Buy some engine paint of your choice
- Now buy a KLZE engine, clean it, paint it, overhaul it with your new parts, then drop it in and plug in the probinator chip to get it running.
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the power is fine for a min but once i get used to it i am going to look into the klze swap. Thanks for all the info mr admin man/woman. i just wanted some cheap power hense the question about remapping. i have a cone filter ready to go on but it will be on the stock pipe. i also have a chip that fools the ecu into thinking its running cold air all the time which will be fitted and hopefully make it run nice and smooth. i did look into the boost valve but i read that it does nothing to the bhp or torque of the car so a pretty pointless mod. there is a few websites online that say remapping is possible on an mx3 but i will contact them next week to verify this. like i said in my other post money is tight at the mo :(
6 days til i pick it up :D
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That 'chip' you bought again only makes the car run richer.
Colder air is more dense, the car therefore thinks it is getting more air than it actually is. More air makes the engine add more fuel. So its just making it run richer. Just like the powerboost valve only you can't adjust it, so even worse.
I don't see it making any difference to your cars speed only its MPG, the MX-3 is setup really good as standard, it does not need extra fuel.
If your planning a futer KLZE I hope you bought a Cone Filter for a 2.5 engine not a 1.8 otherwise you will need to buy a bigger one further down the line.
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Check out this book:
http://www.dummies.com/store/product/Car-Hacks-Mods-For-Dummies.productCd-0764571427.html
I remember reading it years ago before I knew about cars and it covers all the crap mods people try to sell and how they all work and whats worth it and whats not.
If your really into cars i'd highly reccommend doing the Vehicle Technician Level 1, 2 and 3 courses that Mechanics have to do while training.
Level 1 is a summer course then Level 2 and 3 are a year each if you do them as an evening course 1 day a week (adults only or you have to convince them that you are really committed) or 2 years each as a fulltime day course 1 day a week.
The best thing I ever did! Helps if your working in a garage while your doing it but you don't have to. When I did mine I was simply working at a garage for free on the weekends not full-time.
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yeah its big enough for a 2.5, just for noise at the mo really. i will skip the chip if its going to decrease mpg. i was also looking at a racing clutch (budget) what do you guys think of this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160453821334&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I know its a cheap one but if it works well then i will get one in a couple of weeks. lightened flywheel will be a good addition but again expense comes into it. i will keep it as a 1.8 for a while so i dont mind modding the engine.
I will check that site now. i would love to take a mechanics course. there is a college just down the road from me so i will look into it. think i am too late to sign up this year though
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looks like a normal clutch just painted blue
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I have done a bit of research on F1 Racing and all seems ok with them. havent seen a bad review yet but i will dive in a bit deeper before i commit myself. there are some nasty clutch kits out there. a stage 3 clutch kit is around £90 plus shipping which is pretty cheap.
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i have also been reading up on this
https://www.emotion-tuning.co.uk/Default.aspx
obviously 10% is not going to happen but its a fairly cheap mod that can be removed for mot purposes etc. its local to me so i can call in. just wondered if anyone has had any kind of experience with this type of kit before. Thanks
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@577037a7a3=daniel:
i have also been reading up on this
https://www.emotion-tuning.co.uk/Default.aspx
obviously 10% is not going to happen but its a fairly cheap mod that can be removed for mot purposes etc. its local to me so i can call in. just wondered if anyone has had any kind of experience with this type of kit before. ThanksMazda is not listed….............
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The clutch you chose is not rated high enough really for a KLZE engine swap. Why buy a clutch if you will need to replace it if you do an engine swap???
Buy one now that you can still use after you swap the engine. (You keep the same gearbox clutch and flywheel when you swap the engine you see)
My clutch is rated at 250 bhp and over 200ft lbs of torque.
Also unless your clutch is on its way out, the stock clutch is pretty good and can take plenty of abuse. A new clutch won't make your car any faster.
About the emotion thing, as I said earlier some cars when they come out of the factory are down tuned in favour of fuel economy instead of power. This leaves a little bit of room for you to use something like this to 'unleash' this extra 10% but the MX-3 is not one of them! It comes out of the factory pretty well tuned for performance as it is.
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i know but they are only up the road from me so i will pop up and see if they can do it. if they can i will post to let you know
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How old are you?
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sorry they had a stage 3 clutch rated up to 297bhp i believe. its a shame about that eMotion thing. and i am 24, why the age question?
P.S 0 years no claims bonus, driving for 5 years, £450 a year fully comp insurance.
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Just roughly guaging your experience level so I know how detailed to explain things.
There are lots of things you can do to these cars to make them go faster but none of them are cheap.
Engine swaps, KLZE (200bhp), KLDE (168 bhp)
Then you can Turbo charge, supercharge or go for ITB's
Then Flyweel and ultralight alloys (reduces rotational mass and unsprung weight)
Then Exhaust and manifolds (no real gains on standard engine, but helps if you have an engine swap)
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Get some pics up in the My Projects section as soon as you get it so we can see what you've got.
Also what year is the car your buying?
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thanks mr admin man. so basictly other than a cold air infeed induction kit the car will have to stay pretty much standard until i can afford an engine. i have only ever owned 1 other jap car and that was a carisma 1.6 (yuck i know) so dont have much experience with them. fords i am fine with. and yeah i will defo put some pics up as soon as i pick it up. practically counting the hours lol. first off its going to get waxed and polished then i will take some pics for you guys. its insured as an SE. i will also polish the engine bay up. any good stuff out there or will ordinary metal cleaner do the job?
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and its a n reg so 95/96
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What year is it? There are SE models from the 1993 White model when they first introduced the SE all the way up to the end of production in 1998.
Have you got the 1993 white one? I like those alot.
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no sorry its a 95/96 model. wish it was a 93 one as will be worth a fortune in the near future. i love limited edition cars lol :D
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That will 99% make your car an OBD2 car.
OBD = On Board Diagnostics
OBD2 cars do not have the correct wiring loom for you to be able to easily swap the engine. You need a 1994 or earlier car really to do an engine swap.