K8 info' please for Le Mans style sports racing car
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Hello, I'm currently building the above car for sprints and hill-climbs. (I'm an ex-F3 test and development driver who is now too old for racing !)...
Just de-greasing the K8 which has been in storage for about 10 years or, so. Info' needed includes :-
- Correct direction of rotation of crank
- Any pre-oiling requirements (eg for the hydraulic lifters) before 1st start
- Where to get a new oil filter
- Positive or negative earth for the starter
Thanks for any other 1st pre-start checks - cams etc.
If you can post photos on this forum, I have a couple of shots of the wind tunnel model (10%) to share. The car is carbon /honeycomb composite and is my own design. It will also use MX3 hubs and driveshafts.
Dave
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Hi Dave.
Wish could help with info, but sadly I’m new to MX3 too.
However, interested in the hillclimb aspect as that was my sport, and I’ve crossed over into officiating. Where will you be competing?
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@rupturedduck Thanks for the reply. Last year I just did a sprint at Castle Combe (my first event for 30+ years) - mega rusty ! I share an MX5 with a friend and this year, so far, we will be doing Curbrough, Loton Park, Goodwood and 'Combe again. Maybe Shelsey too if we can get an entry. Just some preparation for when the sportscar is ready...
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That’s quite an impressive list. You’ll have a busy season. What else are you working on then? Gurston Down was our hill of choice.
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@rupturedduck Forgot to mention Llandow in July. I had my first win here in 1972 - Formula Ford 1600, a school car (Alexis 23) owned by Alan Taylor. Currently making the rear wings and doing internal chassis fits on the sportscar.
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Hello Dave,
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The crank rotates clockwise when looking at the pulley and i would recommend cranking the engine by hand a couple of times before trying to start it so that everything loosens up a bit as its been standing for a while.
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The only way to pre-oil the HLA's would be to remove each one individually strip it apart and then oil them.
They should be ok for the initial start and the hand crank will help the initial movement. -
Oil filters are still available from most motor factors ( I go to MPD for mine).
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The whole car is negative earth, its been a long time since i have heard of a positive earth being on a car.
Also check the water ways around the EGR valve and the butterfly valve manifold as they can become blocked easily.
I hope this helps you a bit.
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@rax Hi Rax - that helps a lot. I can get started now (after a hand crank first).
10% scale wind tunnel model. K8 engine is mid-mounted.
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Oh wow. That’s a beauty.
Love Llandow. Have sprinted and tested there. We had a Swift FB91 FF1600, but my favourite was the Global GT Light.
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@dave-cooper Hi, a second query has arisen relating to the distributor cap and firing order. I understood the K8 to be 1-2-3-4-5-6. which is logical as this means alternate banks fire in turn. However, looking at the distributor cap, we have 4,5 and 3 at the top and 6,1 and 2 at the bottom. Thinking in 'old-fashioned' terms of a sort of rotor arm system, neither direction can give 1-2-3-4-5-6 ? The plug lead lengths seem to tally with the numbers on the cap. I'm wondering if something is going on inside the 'dizzy' to transpose cylinders 4 and 5 ? As the engine is yet to run, I need to get this right before I make up the exhaust system. Cheers for any clarity !
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@rupturedduck Global Lights was a neat little series I thought. Is it still going ?
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@dave-cooper I believe in Ireland, yes. Such a hoot to drive. It’s like stalling on a backpack with wheels and an R1 engine.
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Hello Dave,
Your dizzy is correct as inside the cap is not a straight forward output.
If you take the cap off you should be able to see the lines that go from the centre to the corresponding plug number.
The firing order is correct though.
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@rax Thanks again Rax. Another step down the road to understanding the K8 !