Knock
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Is that a droplink?
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That is a ARB droplink yes, if you can undo one end of it you can give it a wiggle to see if its goosed or not. new ones have no play and are very stiff to move.
when worn will usually knock going slow over small bumps and on full lock when slow cornering,
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its not the drop link….I dont think anyway, what about the movement in the drive shaft??
here is another video to indicate the noise. Here, I am simply turning the steering wheel full lock both ways
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that sounds like either driveshaft or CV joint to me and i would be tempted to say its the latter of the two. very similar noise to when my CV joint went on my old 3
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hmm..has to be one of the two, but what about the fact that I can move the drive shaft back and forth? does that indicate ourter cv, or inner??
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i would say the inner near side CV joint, luckily they are not too expensive. I am sure someone else will be along with their expert opinion but that would defo be my guess mate
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thanks Dan
it does seem that way, as I can push the driveshaft up first, then back. I did inspect the boot, and it doesnt look split or anything but i wonder if, regardless of the expense, its better to replace the whole thing?
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if in doubt (which is possible as even my mechanic couldnt tell which one was gone) replace both inner and outer. sorted my problem out. I need to do it again on my new (older) one now though :(
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cheers dude, I think thats the best course of action. I will get a new one ordered as son as I can find one at a decent price. Probestore is a bit dear…...
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europarts or mill autos are pretty good, if you find a cheaper price with them message ROC on here (probestore) and see if he can beat the price ;)
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I tried Europarts, and they only have one listed in stock, at £69…but the others in the search results are over £100 odd quid, so im unsure if the £69 is correct..I suspect not..!
couldnt find anything in Mill Autos, but I will keep trying as I need to get the part orderd now so I can begin the work this week.
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There is usually a surcharge on driveshafts wich you get back once they have received your old shaft for reconditioning.
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ah bummer, thats a pain, might try Andrew Pages as they are closer to me if they want an exchange….pain in the arse!
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If you have ABS, you'll need to factor in new ABS rings too, unless you get a CV joint with them already fitted.
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yes, i do have abs, im sure the cv's i have seen have the abs ring on, but i will be sure to check, thanks Hammy!
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Though if you have an old CV and the ABS ring is still decent you can tap it off carefully and refit to new CV.
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struggling with this.
have had anothe rlook today, but cant begin to find anything out without taking everything apart, whihc i am afraid to do. I checked the end of the driveshaft that is nearest the gearbox, and tehres a little bit of movement there, but from the inner cv to outer cv, theres loads of movement.
some people have suggested missing circlip, but i cant remove the drive shaft to find out without leaving myself open to not being abel to fix it. Besides, looking at the hub nut, it looked hammered into the small groove where id expect a clip?
I dont want to get ripped off by a garage just yet, can anyone lend any more advice? do i bite the bullet and take to garage, or is it worth me attempting the job myself? If its a possibility that its just a missing clip that can fix the issue, then great I save a fortune, but its the movement of the shaft that has confused me…..both cv boots are fully intact (i cant remove one for a look because the clips are well fixed in place)
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@7104472769:
Yes. A clicking sound when turning is one of the classic symptoms of a worn or damaged "constant velocity" (CV) joint. Your car has four such joints on the two front axles: two inboard joints and two outboard joints. The outboard joints are the ones that make a clicking sound when they go bad.
Inside the joint are six steel balls, positioned in grooves between an inner race and an outer housing. The balls are held in position by a cage that looks something like a wide bracelet with windows or slots cut in it. When the joint is new, the balls fit tightly into the cage windows. But as the joint accumulates miles, the cage windows become worn and allow the balls to rattle around. The grooves in the inner race and outer housing also wear, which further contributes to noise.
When driving straight, a worn CV joint is usually quiet (constant noise would indicate a bad wheel bearing or other problem). But when the wheels are turned to either side, the joint bends causing the balls to click as they slide around in their cage windows and grooves. The noise is usually loudest when backing up with the wheels turned. Repacking the joint with grease won't help because the joint is worn and needs to be replaced.
I doubt its a missing circlip does sound like a worn outer CV. I would really try to remove the clip holding the boot in place, you should be able to squeeze it open or cut it off with some decent pliers and you can always use a zip tie or jubillee clip in place again just incase you cant reuse the old clip.
As regards to the hub nut that sounds like a castlenated nut, the stake will realease itself with enough force when undoing the nut which in my experience will require quite a bit of force ie a big breaker bar with a long pole on the end of it to gain enough leverage, usually easiest to take to a garage to get loosened with an air gun if you dont have said big breaker bar and pole.
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thanks for this, i will have a go at the outer cv first after inspection….
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The hub nut is a simple hex nut (32mm) with a collar that gets 'staked' into the groove of the axle. First try and straighten out the dent/stake by hammering something along the axle groove. I used a small but strong flat screwdriver. Then you need to secure the axle/wheel from rotation. I've done this a couple of ways:
- get someone in the car to stand on the brakes
- if you have wheels with a removable centre cap you crack it off with the car on the ground
- this is a bit nasty, and I probably shouldn't even say it, get a strong screwdriver, slot into the brake disc vents, let it rotate until the caliper stops it.
I then use a breaker bar, 6 sided 32mm socket and a peice of scaffolding to crack them. Try and keep the socket well seated and the bar nice and parallel, you don't want it to slip and round the nut off.
If you know someone with airtools get them to crack it off.
If you're really stuck you could dremel off the nut and split it.
I've also used heat (blow torch) and candle wax, but this is bad for the wheel bearing.
