£55 delivered from here http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1191327&parttype=7228
German was £77
Polish one is too complicated to order :lol:
Hong kong never got back to me on a price even!
USA dont ship to UK :wink:
You have no idea how glad I am to see you pop up, and what youve said is more helpful than you know, cos I now know its a pretty pointless thing to chase after since I cant use the OBDII adapter and phone tool even if this car were OBDII due to the mazda take on things, I also know the why of that too now. So thank you for that Famine, help yourself to a Karma Jelly Bean ;)
Yeah he would, lol. Like the other guys have said just prepare for the worst… Which is a lot of water and trying to take it careful, you should be able to make it back. But also ask for a test drive, take it around the block and that may give you some indication of how bad the leak is.
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Well its a proven route so many many topics on this on .com
Just a matter of being well researched and prepped ready…
Engine swaps are pretty easing really on difference with this
is sorting out intercooler placement and pipework and you might
want the wiring loom and ECU aswell.
Any second hand Engine might require a rebuild and parts though?! which would push up costs. Unless you find a low miler :D
P.s why would you want a V6 when you can get 250bhp+ out of a 1.8 16valve 323 turbo lump?! :P
thanks josh. i googled 95 mx3 awd to see what they look like. ( ive had my 93 for 3 months. ineeded a gas saver, an it looked cool, paid $400 dollars for it.but i digress,) and i found your 7 pages, quite impressive, we may have different goals,but that does mean i c'ant enjoy what a fine job you've done . found another mx3 stick shift (beat to death) today told the owner call me when he is done with it. that one may become my hot rod! thanks agian .
CUTTING OUT
If it only does it after the car has been driven for a while, It might be a temperature related issue. Its fine from cold but once its up to temp its having a problem.
You need to test this by keeping it stationary and just hold it at 2000 rpm for 15 mins or so with the bonnet closed then turn it off, then back on and see if it will idle OK.
IF IT DOES NOT IDLE OK
Then you can assume its probably temp related.
IF IT DOES IDLE OK
Then take it for a short ride round the block and see if it still idles ok when you get back.
Let us know what happens then we can help more.
THE JERKING IN FIRST
Can you describe it more.
Is it 'Bunny Hopping'? losing power then sruging forward?
Or is it stuttering when you try and accellerate?
Does it do it all the time? from cold or only when engine is warm?
Try and describe it better and see if it does it from cold or not. The more you describe it and pinpoint when it happens the more we can help.
JUMPING IN SECOND AT 4000 rpm
You need to describe this better.
Does it do it from cold?
What do you mean by jump?
so new front calipers fitted, new fuel injector seals fitted.
car running well, sitting at 1500rpm at idle. so adjusted the screw, so now 1000-1200rpm roughly. still a bit high, but the screw won't turn any more.
will take a few drive cycles to settle i suppose and will adjust the screw position back to where it was again.
but glad to have her back on the road again.
@32d98afb07=youdirtyfox:
Is it the SOHC or DOHC? It will be fine either way as long as the map is good, Sounds like you know a good tuner!
MX3.com forum has more info on Turboing then this one also look at Miataturbo.net for more info If you need it.
You will have an uprated clutch also?!
Good luck & have fun :D
It is dohc.i have a very good tuner :-)
yes i will have a custom sinter cloutch,good for 400hp