Project: Gray Death.
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I remember reading something about that on mx3.com. if I had the time id find for you and post the link but im somewhat busy at the moment
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Just wired in a live cut off switch to the dash, so I can turn them on\off at will.
Issue fixed. :rimshot:
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Thanks bud.
Any idea on where the coolant sensors are\should be.
I've found the single pin between the rockers that controls the temp gauge.
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Ignore me, I must have wired up the rad fans with the engine up to temp, as today they stayed off until the engine reached 50% temp.
Two new issues thou.
Power Steering fluid is raising and lowering to massive degree's. At times it will suck an entire bottle of it and then spit it back out a few mins later.
Heater matrix isn't blowing hot air, only cold.
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Sounds like both have some bleeding issues.
Can't see why the matrix would stop receiving hot coolant ?.
Think dj had some major troubles bleeding pas and burnt out pump so be warned !.
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It's a leak somewhere but I'm not moving the car atm so the pump isn't under use, it should be ok. I do have a spare in the shed thou.
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Ran the car up to temp and left it sat there for around an hour today.
Rad was stone cold, so started to look into the coolant lines, but discovered that outside the fans radius the rad was 'normal' temps…
Highly recommended fans.
Need to replace the thermostat thou, no hot air is making it cold to work on :)
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Lori, how are you attempting to bleed the PAS?
It should be done with both front wheels off the ground with engine OFF (initially) Axle stands, chock BOTH rear wheels and handbrake ON
Just keep topping bottle up, turn S wheel from left to right about six times each side, slowly and pause at each end stop.
keep adding fluid until after each lock to lock session, the level does'nt raise or lower and remains between the two marks.
Stick at this bit, you might have to do it at least 3 times!!! like I did until level was constant.
Now START the car allow it to idle. DONT REV!! now turn the wheel lock to lock again but this time dont hold it at the stops for MORE THAN FIVE seconds or you will overheat the pump and cause damage to rack seals!!! Bribe an assistant with hot fluids of the drinking kind to watch and listen the whole time you do this with engine running, looking for puddles, smoke, leaks and listening for squeals and squeeks from pump and belt??
When all looks well? drop the car to ground and give it a test drive…. don't be tempted to test it static with engine running without FORWARD MOTION! because A) It puts undue strain on steering and suspension parts and B) there will be no cooling effect on the system from air hitting the cooler so heat will build up quickly.
Is the tension on the PAS drive belt correct? :oops:
I didnt lose a lot of fluid when I attacked mine cos I had two rubber bungs at the ready to block pipes and raised them above the reservoir level when I cleaned my PAS cooler up! :D
Hope you get this sorted soon fella and ya cooling prob too, you deserve some reward for your efforts so far? :P
kev b.
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Oh just had another thought Lori. (after thought!)
Having both wheels in the air with the engine running will probably throw up the ABS warning light!…. as the rear wheels will be static and due to oil drag in the diff/gearbox from the primary input shaft rotation, the front wheels will spin ( TAKE CARE WITH THIS ) (OS anticlockwise, NS clockwise, I think??)…..confusing the ABS ecu!!!
panic not though :shock: when you drop car to ground and restart, the light SHOULD remain OFF as normal? :P
kev b.
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That's the way I've done it, or at least, the engine off part, I've not done the engine on part yet as I'm not 100% sure I've wired up the pump right.
I think it's missing a small wire to the bottom of the pump. I've been trying to work out where it goes lol.
It's an air leak as I can see it bubbling back up inside the PAS fluid container, it's not from heat (so not bubbling over) as it doesn't get hot, but it's also not leaking outside the car from what I can see. (Will do the clean cardboard test this weekend) I'll jack\axle the thing back up and have a look under.
Thanks for the instructions.
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I did a pump last time lori, just keep the hose off the header tank and get someone to gently pour in fluid as you turn the steering lock to lock, doesnt need much air in the system to kill the pump on these.
then when you think it has gone through the system and you have filled the cooler pipes up on the front end on the return hose, now start the car and instantly stop again and you will see the level will have plummeted with the small amount of air that was in the pump. just top up to top line again and start then stop again and do that until it doesnt drop on start againthe small wire is a sensor cable for the pump normally blue
If the fluid is draining out and refilling its massively airlocked.
need to take the pipe off on the return side of the pump ( the pipe from the rack to the cooler at the front) and get someone to pour fluid down the pipe from the bottle end until it starts coming through then reconnect and fill the pipe up the reconnect to bottle, then do the same from the other end of the bottle the main feed, just pour it in while turning wheel.
and fill pipe to top then reconnect and then fill bttle.if its disappearing and then refilling its pressurising an air bubble somewhere
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Soz Lori,
didn't realize or read that you'd disturbed a 'FEW' connections of PAS :oops:
I guess you must have lost quite a lot of fluid in process of 'cooler' cleaning??? if it's as badly air locked as you describe! :(Only direction I can give is try and rectify problem with engine static and if you simply must run pump?….......only run for short periods.. as mentioned before if run dry for two long it will cook and be 'cooked' permanently!
The electrical connection again as mentioned, should connect to your loom somewhere???..its a single wire connection at any rate.
Iirc it is a pressure switch on pump to inform ECU of 'PAS use' and will in turn adjust ( raise ) engine rpm to compensate for extra engine load from pump?
at least on K8 anyway, not sure about KLZE?BOL fella hope you get sorted.
kev b.
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Not done much in the way of the engine, but sorted a few little things out.
Projector headlights are in and working.
Boot light replaced with two LED lights.
Inside light replaced with a LED light.
Door lights ready to be installed.
http://www.ahparts.com/e/DSC04609.JPG2x 12V outlets installed in the boot.
2x 12V outlets installed in the glove box.
USB Drive caddy (with shock protection) behind the dash with quick release.
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OK, a few videos for your pleasure.
It's started to make a few odd sounds, so videos on here for your ears.
http://youtu.be/qkBQK5V7lyc
A slight rubbing sound, belt related but not a squeal, more of a slight rubbing.http://youtu.be/6gGmaav4XkM
I'm a KLZE.. Hear me rawr.http://youtu.be/-ok7arIS8q4
Holy tappets batman.http://youtu.be/0KY3kggsPiE
Cold start and engine sounds at idle.
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Sounds like it's running ok, hard to tell with tappets with added exhaust blowing and rattling. What oil have you used in it?. I tried 0-40 once and found it too thin.
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Will check tomorrow, the bottle is still outside bud.
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Wired in the projectors and got the damn thing on the ramps.
Which means, gearbox works, but it's a real pain to get it in gear and the leaver points forwards now.. :shock:
I think I may have installed the short shifter backwards… :P
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02 sensors wired in, might be wrong but she idles better and makes less smoke.. but she now backfires like a hoe. Let off at 4k and it's pop pop pop all the way down to 1k. :D
Exhaust cut and temp fitted again, going to need a garage to work on it at some point but she should do until it's moving.
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Great to see this still ongoing :respect:
