Knock
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sod it, just ordered an Electric Impact Wrench….....
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chaps.
got mi Impact Wrench, first try was a no go, but I kinda expected that :/
anyhooo, have sprayed penetrating oil on, and im going to buy a new 3/4" breaker bar, but, i need to double check, which way is the thread for the passenger front hub??
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as far as i am aware it is a standard thread mate but will have to double check with someone on here
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just thought, although I have chiselled out the wedge but is there anythign else to remove first? There doesnt look to be, but im worried I am trying to undo the nutt he wrong way or i have missed a circlip or something??
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will be a standard thread im sure, lefty loosie righty tighty.
Can you not take it to a local friendly garage and get them to uncrack it for you?
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they are standard thread, its probably just welded itself on from corrosion and heat
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@582d41cff9=youdirtyfox:
will be a standard thread im sure, lefty loosie righty tighty.
Can you not take it to a local friendly garage and get them to uncrack it for you?if I cant do it this weekend, then I will take it down the road. I wouldnt say they were a friendly garage, but if I ask nicely they might do it for me…..
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I take it you have tried a big long scaffold bar to get some leverage?
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@a6b7cd2a5c=mx3gulf:
I take it you have tried a big long scaffold bar to get some leverage?
yup….broke my 1/2" breaker bar, bent the bar too......!
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holy shit that is tight lol
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bought 3/4" breaker bar and appropriate impact socket, took all of 20 seconds and I hardly had to try, very chuffed….
now i just got to work out how to swap the CV joint!
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ok, spent a while studying and figured out how to swap my CV. what I did find, is that the old one was MISSING the circlip, which I believe explains the knocking noise and drive shaft movement, because now, its solid. I am also missing one of the two bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone, so I need to replace that before putting everything back together and torquing up!!
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you may find that the circlip came off with the joint itself. glad you managed to get it off though bud, congrats :)
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I did wonder that Daniel, but I searched everywhere…there just wasnt a clip! I suspect that they changed this CV joint some time ago, and didnt bother fitting the circlip, and at the same time, not bothering to secure the ball joint with the two required bolts to the wishbone...shoddy work!
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knackers.
I cant get the ball joint back in!!!
I have tried and tried, but I feel I am doing something wrong? Basically, its like I need to tilt the hub so that I can line up the ball joint, but it wont go in.
I even tried removing the ball joint (as there was already a bolt missing) and it still wont lin eup, we are talking a couple of mm.
what am I doing wrong???
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are you trying to fit a new ball joint? As I think there are two sizes of pin.
early/late 17/19mm I think?
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well, its all going steadily wrong, and I could really do with some advice!
I managed to get the ball joint in place last night, after removing the two hub nuts that join to the suspension. It was really hard, i had to jack the hub up to align with the suspension so I could refit the bolts. I torqued it up this evening, and was going to drive off when whirrrrr…..feels like the dive shaft is just spinning.
I jacked it up again onto axel stands (both sides) and the side i have been working on is really hard to turn...
what on earth have I dont wrong now???
I can turn it, and the drive shaft does turn, but its REAL difficult.... as if im doing it with the breaks on!
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Is it not suppose to be tight and will bed in?
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I dunno, all I know is the wheel wont turn if I try to drive it, I can hear something spinning though, I assume the drive shaft….??
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ok dudes, I have an update on this.
so last night I decided to yank the driveshaft out to inspect. TBH, everything looks ok, but I figured I need to be sure its seated in the gearbox correctly. I made a slight error and remove the inner cv boot, spilling the contents everywhere, so I need to remove the cup from the gearbox tonight to inspect.
I am not sure what I have done wrong originally. Now its all apart, the hub turns easily (a little bit stiff but turns easily), the new cv seems good, and even the inner cv looks fine. I bought some new CV Moly grease and a utility bar to prise out the remaining part so I can put it all back together again.
I managed to remove the tie rod end this time, which I didnt do before and this made life a lot easier. What I can understand is, why was the hub so tight the first time I put everything back together? The driveshaft didnt move at all, even though when the cv is remove from the hub, theres loads of give where the shaft enters the cup.
I cant see what was spinning freely on the shaft when i first tried to drive it, so I am hoping to find out tonight when I remove the driveshaft cup, I kinda hope its missing a circlip, so thta I have an explaination.
Is there a routine for putting everything back together??