Knock
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im going to attempt to remove the drive shaft I have worked on. I did try a few weeks ago but I couldnt get good leverage to remove it, any tips?
as for clutch, no idea, car was driving fine clutch-wise before any work was done…with the whirring sound, im edging my bets its worn driveshaft splines, what I dont understand, is how can it have worked for just a bit when i was fixing, then break again..?
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You're getting a really rough time of it aren't you? I'd be very surprised if the splines were destroyed, the same mazda splines have put 500whp down, usually an axle shaft breaks first. However your scenario does sound unique…
At this stage I'd have the engine & gearbox out :lol:
Does the clutch feel normal? (normal bite etc)
Does 5th gear work? (5th and reverse are separate in the gearbox extension housing unlike the other gears)
When the front is jacked up, engine off, try spinning one wheel in neutral, does the other wheel go the opposite direction?
Does the gearbox engage all gears easily?If you do take both the axles right out, be careful, the spider gears in the OEM open diff are prone to dropping, then IIRC you have to open up the box. I think doing one at a time would also help.
- I just watched your videos. The gearbox is getting thrown side to side with each revolution. Something is seriously out of shape. Does no one live near poor clivvy?
Current wild speculative theory, the incorrect BJ offset the driveshaft and physical interference has trashed the diff. It's not looking good for Mr Gearbag.
If you grab the green CV cups is there much play?
I think whoever put that last BJ on owes you a gearbox... I feel your pain. I hope I'm wrong.
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to answer some of your questions Marco!
clutch normal
gears normal (in fact, everything worked brilliant untill I changed the CV,all I had was a knock)
5th and reverse easy to select and work
I have attempted to fix the car several times, sometimes it knocks, sometimes it doesnt, suggesting to me something with the hub etc have since replaced the lower bj and everything was easier to put back together.
havent noted if spinning one wheel turns the other, will check, but as in the videos, when idling, both wheels spin same direction.
grabbing the inner cv cup, no play, but turns fine.the odd thing is, first time I put the CV back together and tried it, no rumbling. Rumbling only occured after tightening and torquing up. It has seemed to me that soemthing was out of shape, because I have been struggling to put everything back together even after fitting the new BJ, but after my first failed attempt last week i took it all apart, knocked in the cv/diff with a few bangs on the hammer to ensure its housed, and everything peiced back together much easier. I noticed when turning the discs that it seems harder at a certain point in the revolution, then ok, where as the drivers side turns all the way fine.
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i vauge guess, but im sure if you remove the gearbox ( i know you havent ) im sure your supose to tie through to keep the diff in place, if you remove both driveshafts ( dont know if you have or not ) perhaps the diff has dropped ????.
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cheers Garfy.
nope, no gearbox removal or shaft removal. Everything was working A1 apart from the knock before I decided to change the CV. Before I changed the CV, I had play in the driveshaft, back and forth towards the gear box. New CV, NO PLAY at all, very tight, but now no drive, and the rumbling of the gearbox.
:(
**just been back out. All gears select fine with engine off. reverse was a little bit crunchy at first, but then fine after a few more tries. Started engine, rumbling occurs, put clutch down, rumbling stops,,,,,,
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I think a new gearbox might be in order or/and possibly a new clutch kit. it does sound like the clutch is not engaging properly. could be something simple like a thrust bearing gone but dont hole me to that. I know a thrust bearing is pretty noisy when they go. It is a very weird problem i must say
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the misses old polo had a rumble that disaperared when clutch was pushed in. that was a gear box failure (totally blitzed inside) and that just came out of the blue.
just my 2 pence worth ;)
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ok, so what if I release the CV from the hub….previously, there was zero rumbling. How can I diagnose the gearbox?
**just checked this post
http://www.uk-mx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1848&highlight=gearbox
see the pics from Marco, showing the clip in the green cup? Mine doesnt haveone...... I can pull the whole thing out easy, could this be causing an issue??
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that clip just keeps it in around full lock.
This sounds like a bigger mechanical issue to me. Any mechanic mates? Really hard to diagnose this unusual issue on the net.
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mechanic mates are one thing I dont have :(
I may have to bite the bullet, and either get a mobile guy out, or have it trailered down to the local garage. I just have this desperately bad feeling, that im going to lose my car, and i have only had it less than a year, hardly even driven it.
not happy.
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Wish I could help more! You should consider writing a synopsis of your problems, and links to videos (esp that one of the gearbox moving side to side) and putting it on mx-3.com. There's some engineering minds on there who may be able to spot the problem in an instant.
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cheers Marco, I really appreciate everyones input so far, but I will do what you suggest, you never know, but in my head, I think something very bad is wrong!
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everytime i see this thread lit i am praying for good news for you mate
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:(
no useful help from mx3.com yet. One chap suggested its the wrong CV, so I am going to attempt to fit my old one, to see what happens….!
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If you're leaving the CV cup in, and have the questionable driveshaft out see if your gearbox is still shuddering from side to side. If it does, you've a problem with the other side or your gearbox is dead.
If it doesn't the problem must be the length of the driveshaft, the tripod inner cv, the cv cup, the outer cv joint or it's seating or the actual geometry (hopefully that's resolved after the BJ).
On the upside, this all good experience. Next stop 2.5 engine swap I think ;)
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cheers Marco, all logical stuff, so I will try it this weekend…!
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HI chaps,
so I quickly did some checking this morning. I detached the hub from the shaft, ran the engine, no knocking. What I did notice though, that even though the passenger side was spinning, the drivers wasnt, and when I put into gear the drivers side still didnt move, no knocking, but no moving, but is that because I have detached the passenger drive shaft (cup still in the gearbox)?
is any of the above conclusive? I added these pics
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/pissing driveshaft/
shows the old and new cv, the end of the drive shaft which I am not sure is worn or not!
i havent put on the old CV yet, not sure there is any point?
**one other point, when removing the CV, it easily popped out of the hub, despite the circlip being in place…
***oh and also, when I compared the new and old cv, I can hardly move the bearings in the new joint, but can easily move them in the old one....
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the last comment is right, you should not have much movement by hand with the new bearings. when i replaced mine, the old one was like stiring a coffee lol. the new one i had to use quite a bit of force to move the shaft around. however, once it was in i could not get it back out again easily.
have you tried removing the clip as when i had mine it was already inside the new joint (I couldnt get the new one on as i was trying to save my old clip and reuse) once i removed the old clip it slotted into place nicely due to it already having a brand new clip inside all prepared :)
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cheers Daniel.
well, I went back out and decided I needed to try the OLD cv, and put it all back together to verify the state of my gearbox. As I said, OLD cv bearings move around quite freely, so I hammered the old cv back onto the shaft (with circlip in place) and as I finished doing that i thought….shit...I never hammered the new one on...anyway, carried on and put it all back together. Did soem inconclusive testing on the jack stands, but the rumbling noise has gone. Tightened everything up and tested properly up and down the driveway, yes, its driving!
as my car isnt taxed, I was restricted, but as the driveway is on two levels and is quite heavy on the steering etc, i figured its a safe test. Did this for a good 20 mins, up and down, left right etc etc, got a few creaks here and there but still have drive. NO rumbling, no spinning, just normal operation.
:)
so, bascially, apart from new BJ and Tie Rod end, I have my old CV back on, and everything is as it was. No knocks though, just a few creaks but understandable as some of the ground is rough and car hasnt been driven for over a month now.
I need to TAX the car so I can test it properly, if it breaks again, I will bite the bullet and AA the car to the garage and get it repaired.
I think what I have learned is, I should have changed the whole shaft in the first place. I think the CV I got isnt 100% right (compared side by side, the new one seems bigger, see:
so I wonder if it was simply forcing everything out of line, everything was too tight maybe I dont know…!!!
I still feel that I will need a new CV perhaps, but on the other hand some proper driving and full lock tests will prove that either way...
well, I feel slightly more relieved now, im 99% sure gearbox and clutch are fine...finegrs crossed anyway.
I am sure this whole thread isnt complete, but thanks so much to everyone for helping me out, youve been very patient and knowledgable and I REALLY appreciate it!
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that is some good news mate, at least the car isnt going to heaven yet lol. the CV joints look very similar to me bud. if they were level i would say that, if anything, the older one looks slightly bigger.
