Theres 2 caps on the water system, I would replace the one on the rad as it seems to not hold pressure as it should and just forcing water into header tank
Ah Cheers for that :)
Yes its quite difficult to compare, no idea what the supporting mods are etc but can get a general idea :)
So a very rough idea, using a few averages etc. Filling in what I didnt have before, I get this :
1.6 Auto . . . . . . . 20.014
1.6 Manual . . . . . .16.700
1.8 Manual K8 . . . 15.835
2.5 Manual KLDE . 14.957
2.5 Manual KLZE . 14.39
Was having a think how effective the engine swaps are. I have a K8 and was wondering why the compression ratio was only 9.0:1 being N/A as that would be perfect for a bit of FI.
I wonder why Mazda didnt go for a higher compression as surely it would have yielded more power and mpg overall?
New fan in and working, tested working indoors this time> then hooked it up
in the engine bay. Easy way of testing the fan system wiring is remove the coolant sensor plug from near the thermostat and turn the ignition on. The fan should run as a default setting, as it did :D
@bb4f23faca=Marco:
See the x member/banana shaped bar ) that goes from side to side, remove it. Under that you'll see another bolt for the rear mount, which means you don't have to take out the one you wiggle in the video.
I could kiss you. :respect:
@e08fcc1777=mx3geoff:
Even more pleasing is to learn we're now in credit and the immediate future
of the club is secure thanks to all the contributers :)
Hell yeah. (Feel free to hum the bad boys song in your head)
Have you pulled any codes?
It will run rich when cold and hence black/ sooty, for 10/20 mins if just idleing, (will warm up much quicker when driven)
Have you just let it idle till achieves normal operating temp? (until fan cuts in)
What is idle like then?
Is the rpm irratic just idleing or just when you open throttle?
You are correct, I have a 'strap' distributor. Correct me if I'm wrong here:
1. The wiring plug shown on your coil is the 'three wire' connector.
2. You don't show the connector on the hall sensor (This is the cam angle sensor), but I'm guessing it's the 6 (or five plus blank) connector.
If 1 and 2 are true, just leave out the coil entirely, make a blanking cover for its hole in the distributor and make the connection using the diagram from the last link you posted (the one by Nd4SpdSe). It would be the first of the diagrams in that link. You're absolutely right that the spade connector is the primary wire to the coil. Check the wire colors (crass American spelling!) on the plug to verify you have the right ones.
Steve Seiter
@3a647f3ef4=ukmx3admin:
yeah and thats without putting your foot down.
Thats right, thats the most i get from a tank, I knocked 40 miles off with the headers lol
Just had mine skimmed and tested at £70 each because there were no signs and I bought a full kit with bolts
chiltons manuals have the full torque settings in the book