I cannot fimnd the rifght connectors, its something to do tomorrow now, all I need is mocal connector to join an AN-10 radiator but mocal do everything in bsp and cannot find conversion table :(
Big Tom, best, cleanest but slight costly solution is to fit oil vapour catch tank (£20-/+).
There are two connections to intake tract for oil vapour removal, one either side of the throttle valve (butterfly).
1. One off the front valve cover top, with the PCV valve on it enters behind the throttle butterfly.
2. Two vents, one from each of the front and back cam covers ( cam belt end corner) converge into a 'T' piece and enter infront of the throttle butterfly valve.
1. and 2. 'FROM' the cam covers should be somehow connected together (a further 'T' piece) and then enter your 'Catch tank'. Then their original connections 'AT' the inlet tract should be blocked off, as this will ensure NO erratic running issues caused by vacuum/induction leaks?
NOTHING downstream (towards engine) of AIRFLOW METER should be open to atmosphere.
PS djmarcopolo There is NO oil pressure sensor connected to the inlet tract!!!! Iirc the only 'oil pressure' device is connected to the lubricating oil pressure circuit located on the oil filter housing? this is a switch only, and illuminates the LOW OIL PRESSURE warning light on dashboard! its electrical output is ON or OFF. :o
Oooops :oops: just seen the date on the initial post!!!!! Ah well, I hope lawrenca has sorted it by now and is 'STILL' not scratchin his head??? :shock:
The old engine ran almost all the time with the fans on and just over halfway, the new ZE it sits a lttle under halfway and and fans kick in when it goes to half :)
You only NEED 'Oil pressure monitoring' Lori…. as if there is 'NO' Oil pressure any other telemetry would be superfluous...... especially at 6500rpm at full load!!! :(
My father of '76 motor tinkering years' has always instilled to me that a good quality mechanical oil pressure gauge with capillary feed is the only info you need if you take your cars engine health and longevity seriously???
the second gauge in his dash would be an 'Oil temp', the two together if sensitive enough and read correctly are invaluble for spirited motoring!.
That said, I've ignored him!!! coz I havn't any fitted!..... just waiting for someone else on here to attempt it and do a parts list and price post? :shock: lol
kev b.
Ease of fitment depends on which you go for. If you have wiring experience the DiyPNp is pretty easy. Otherwise some plug and play solutions are available like stratified auto and I think even diyautotune themselves
If you get prebuilt its pretty basic to install but have a good read through megasquirt docs.
Tuning the fuel is quite easy with logging or the auto tune feature. Set your target AFR and go. Spark ideally should involve dyno time. Base maps will get you by, and in my case felt faster. The induction noise with no VAf is great :-)
Power wise, 10-15hp is reasonable, increasing with your mods. No one bothers much fine tuning k8s. I did run ms with a k8ze for a while, went well, better than standard but just not ze or de league.
Hi fella
Yes it could actually affect idle speed, ie idle slower? as on a system without a catch tank (standard), on idle with the throttle valve closed the vacuum created by induction will:
A) draw metered air in via air filter through VAF and through IAC (as it should).
B) draw in 'blow by' crankcase gases (un metered) via PCV valve (front rocker cover).
When the throttle is opened the induction vacuum will decrease and the PCV will close and allow the two rocker cover breather pipes to then take over which feed the dirty oil laden gases into the induction upstream of the throttle valve under positive pressure, these also carry un metered air!
It follows that if you delete these feeds to the induction, the only air entering the engine for combustion will be metered by the VAF.
In essence fitting a catch tank you're trying to create and isolate two separate systems:
Metered induction air. GOOD
Dirty, hot, blow by gases laden with oil vapour and carbon deposits. BAD
Obviously any pipe that you've routed to the catch tank, its original connection to induction will need to be blocked off!!
Maybe? connect up your catch tank as described above and then jump TEN and GND and adjust idle speed when normal operating temp is reached so ECU can adjust to new set up :) ?
You're spot on with engine dying on a standard K8! ie if you pull dipstick, or if you remove oil filler cap, because in effect all you're doing is opening induction to the atmosphere and breaking vaccum and hence the VAF will not meter ANY air and go crying to ECU that engine is 'OFF'!!! :(
Bear in mind also that MAZDA may have spent millions on emissions and induction design to achieve the best balance in performance and cleanliness! altering either of these may affect drive ability or your offspring's future planet!!!! :o
Hope this waffle helps and if you notice any difference after you plumb your catch tank in? then maybe report back with your findings to help others considering a similar conversion. :P
kev b.
For something like this I would use probestore as no doubt they will know the difference In design between manufactures.
There cheaper quality ones are still in the £20 bracket.
And a nice tester to for £14 !.
http://www.fordprobestore.co.uk/store/index.php/cPath/51_74/sort/2a/page/3
Cheers Garfy1981,
Yes mine appears on the rich side too as mentioned prev, but my Lambda of 1.001 would suggest that the O2's are functioning as desired?
Maybe due to the CAT spending 11 months of the year on the garage floor has not done it's 'Converting' abilities any favors ? :shock: and that's what produced the raised CO of 0.120 ??? also it's only been on the car about 12 days and only covered 100+ mls prior to MOT !.
Think CAT is stopping on car now, the noise without it produced by 'bypass' pipe, was good for a while :) but eventually became intrusive and more and more of my neighbors lights came on in the early hours of a morning as I set off for work ! :oops:
Really like to sort this 'wobble' tho :( might have a look at EGR, PURGE, and FP solenoids and associated plumbing as it feels like somethings opening or introducing air/vacuum into induction to me when it shouldn't be? it's deffo (?) not a missfire!! and more pronounced the slower the speed of the car but always between 1500 and just after 2000 rpm and no where else in rpm range??? :?
If I find owt, I'll report back I promise :D
Kev b.
5/30 or 5/40 are the best choices for these V6 engines, the 4 cylinders 10/40. That's years of various owners clubs and specialists in these cars recommendations.
sure you checked the correct numbers of the disty
(if you changed the entire unit , not only he coil?)
they differ year dependant) and are not compatible each other .
Here it's a shot of my old one ,
http://s162.photobucket.com/user/alexlotta/media/CarLotta/vano4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=14
When i got my fault problem , i changed the entire disty unit.
Other thing to try is the famous coil mod
(the " HEI mod " , a not expensive "boomerang /like" module + an external generic coil , i will give the links i saved if you need ,
but people here around are far more skilled on that argument) .
The disty is the only "common " problem of this car , so if you solve it you could live happier with her still a while , i believe.
