Fuel pump is dead easy to check, IIRC:
Pull back seat off, just the bottom bit
Release pressure from the lines by running car with FP disconnected until it stalls
Open filler cap to release pressure there
Take off the ground 6-8mm hex nut on the FP mounting plate
Remove the send and return lines, have a rag around it to catch the dribbles
Unscrew the small brass screws x 6/8?
Lift out FP assembly as one
Be careful with the angle, you lift up then go at an angle so the float and filter clear the hole, otherwise you can mess up the readings for the guage
You may find garbage in the tank. The RH bend thing is a bit common though. Could look into baffling the tank better. Alu fuel cell in your budget? :lol:
It was the wheel bearing, was proper trashed.
Changed that and good to roll again. No knocking or grinding.
Jobs a good un - MOT day today. Fingers crossed.
If it passes im gonna get me a catback, well de-cat back exhaust as a treat haha
Boom good for another 12 months Phew
I have had the same issue - OK it passes the MOT but with 1 straight through silencer it becomes embarracing to put your foot down at all and also too loud to bear inside the car. It can also be quite a harsh sound too.
I'd recommend puting a straight through mid section silencer in which has almost identical flow as a straight through pipe, but will take the raspy edge off the exhaust note.
All depends on how well you get on with your neighbours :oops: :imout:
I used a stock K8 cable on mine and mounted it onto a bolt on the inlet manifold, the cable is a little tight but has worked perfectly for over a year now
Well results are in; bit 2 ways really, part of me is disspointed, but other part of me is happy because engine can be rebuilt so i know exactely whats going on inside. As the original engine came from japan, sat on a pallet for about 3 years and then got fitted, ive never really known the history or condition as ive not opened it up, only put on a cambelt and water pump and dropped it straight in.
Anyhow, i tried it twice, 2nd time i really let engine get a good long run before testing but the readings remained the same.
Top left bank 145
Top middle bank 160
Top right bank 145
Bottom left bank 130
Bottom middle bank 140
Bottom right bank 135
So next quest is what parts to fit now engine is coming out, I have KLDE valve springs and retainers, thinking about colt cams, cam belt, water pump, head gasket, a good port and polish.
any more suggestions ??? or reasons why readings could be low?.
This is a hard one, best place to get a KLDE ecu is the Ford Probe club (UKPOC), all the pre 95 cars use the one you'll need, all years of Probe have the correct VAF.
Distributor will need to be a TOT57071, or 57072 if you are using one of the above ECUs. These are found on early MX-3, MX-6 and Probe.
@6aec0e2587=Cipher-032:
Thing is, what is too tight and too lose? :mrgreen:
It can happen, I saw a Pinto engine only drop oil quiet badly after blowing a head gasket.
You can do it by feel rather easily.
torque is linear, so 60 inch lbs is 5 lbs on a foot, and you have a better muscle-wise guesstimate on 5 lbs than 60.
Range in in-lbs from the manual is 43-78, which translates to 3.58-6.5 lbs on a foot… if you can't feel that, then idk, you need to handle more groceries! lol.
Is it the metal pipe that runs between the cylinder banks to the thermostat ?
If it is replace the whole pipe, they rust out on the welds over time, the only others I know of are at the rear into the heater matrix but if the plastic joints are leaking break them off and use hose clips straight onto the pipes or the o ring onto the thermostat housing but buy a new thermostat and the ring comes free :cheers:
