I'm guessing in that case mate he must have tweaked it from standard then, it was lowered and loud and starting to pull away in a straight line but that makes no difference if you only have the balls to put your boot down in a straight line!!!
My little mx3 was all over him when it came to the bends, took him on a roundabout (naughty but fun) and then left him behind :twisted:
i should think so yes,
you may also have duff sparks and ht leads, try a resistance test on each of your leads, the results will vary for the length of the lead as leads are designed to suppress electrical interference so they are internally resistant which increases with the length of the lead, so your shortest lead should also be your least resistant, and the longest should be your highest resistance of the set, if they dont ascend in resistance as the length increases in relation to each other then you have a duff lead. When I checked the leads on mine when I got it I found that I had HUUUUUUGE resistance on all leads and the one feeding cylinder 3 didnt work at all, i tested to 2million ohms and still nothing, the results where between 34k and 78k, which is way too high anyway, on a good/average set of leads it should be around 4k ohms per foot or something similar, on my new leads (Kerr Nelson K1's) I measured them all before fitting and the results where from 4k for the shortest and 13k for the longest iirc.
Id check all those things, shouldnt take more than an hour to have the sparkers, ht leads and throttle body checked. Id expect that to point you in the right direction, take note of carbon/oily plugs too, the general thing about spark plug condition doesnt work as well as people still think and those are the only two things a spark plug is likely to show you nowadays as with the removal of lead from petrol the spark plug condition doesnt work like the ones you see in haynes manuals.
If you find your throttle body is closing too much etc or you just want to rule it out and bring back some power at the same time, let me know, ive played around with mine a fair amount and have it sweet as a nut, should write a how to, but I doubt anyone would take the benefit of it.
cheers Marco,
yeah, i think i will try a bit of the VHT paint, of course I wont count on it for anything but it may help a little.
With my old MX6, I didnt have to replace any part of the exhaust in the 4 years I had it, good quality parts I suppose!
Basically if you let more air in after the air meter that measures how much air your engine is sucking in the engine will be running lean. On a high compression engine that is already tuned and timed lean then running leaner at high performance requirements IE WOT with high revs will produce detonation and rough burn patterns. Knock sensors will pull that timing right back resulting in quite hefty losses of power.
Basically computer see's X amount of air and puts X amount of fuel in and advances the timing to X producing the maximum power it can from any given engine. Put X+1 air in with the computer only seeing X air then The amount of fuel going in is not enough and the timing is too far advanced to light the mix properly. This is a big problem in turbo charged cars but still a factor in normally aspirated high compression performance engines.
No worries! Yea I'll happily do a full breakdown in price to anyone that would like it. Though I'd encourage anyone to do their own research rather than reading one post and going "sweet 170% power for £500!!!!!!!"
The dyno printout in my worklog, check it out, though all dynos are different I'm pretty sure it's close.
@b2db72530e=dangerous:
Problem is buddy people do just look at the words and some do indeed think that because someone has said in a post that they got 70% increase on power for £500 (people convince themselves what they want to be convinced about). All in all though I am quite correct in my assertion that you'd be hard pushed to increase a cars power by 70% by turbo'ing it with £500.
As Marco says himself he had the car set up for similar levels of S/C boost, so injectors, fuel pump, and the all important ecu tweakage is normally what would see off at least 50-75% of any boosting budget. Fabrication can see off large lumps of cash which is why most opt for off the shelf kits. I must say I'm struggling to see how a 56 trim turbo is managing that sort of power at such low boost on a 2.5. I will hold my hand up and say I thought it was a 1.8 Marco was on about. The 2.5 conversion won't be cheap either I expect.
Sorry for the lack of intro I did one on my HTC but it would appear that didn't post so I will go and rectify the situation now.
Check the new pads you have fitted are wearing evenly, it maybe the inside one is slightly angled or is a lot thinner than the outer one, I get juddering on mine every year and I usually replace all the pads and coat all the moving parts on the calipers with copper grease as they like to seize up.
It could be a seized caliper on the back, I have it at the moment and need to unseize them all again :roll:
When you changed them did you replace the little metal caps that go on to make the pads sit tight in the caliper ???? or were they so tight you needed a hammer to refit, it could be to do with that too, if they were really tight you will need to clean around the caliper so they arent jammed solid
As usual I have been corrected !!! :lol:
cheers for the input guys.
i already have the conical air filter down low in the engine bay attached to my blinging intake pipe to suck in some cooler air.
i stand corrected i meant ram air intake not forced :oops:
but keeping the intake pipe straight may be a bit tricky as has been pointed out.
I shall reurn to my drawing board for the time being but fear not mx-3 land i shall return mwah ha ha ha :evil:
did you have any joy on this problem? mine is almost the exact same symptoms. lacks below 5k but after that pulls really hard and smells of petrol. i am guessing the egr valve must have been the issue or you would have told us right?
@459126527b=Marco:
I recommend filling your mounts with polyurethane, or windscreen glue if you can't get that.
A tube of this will do all of them, but will take a week to set but it sets at the same strength as the rubber in the mount, you wont have any probs with them after that, especially if you see where the rear one is
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sikaflex-291i-Marine-Sealant-100ml-BLACK-/260828043677?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3cba90199d
Ok hands up which numpty didn't bleed the system properly!!!
I thought i had, honest :oops:
ran her today with filler cap off as suggested by the posts from the guys and lo and behold some nasty air bubbles did appear :evil:
once the air stopped coming i topped her up, replaced the cap and ran for about 25-30 mins with temp going no further than just above the middle which is normal for spike. decided not to let it run any more as it will probably run out of petrol!!
So thanks again for the assist guys, greatly appreciated as ever :D
@fe91d13f27=clivvy:
cheers chaps, i will check out the super 4's!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Super-4-Spark-Plug-MAZDA-MX-3-1-8i-93-96-/290557637665?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a695b421
6 = £22.14 for the lot inc P&P
ok mate, ill take that off you but will send payment tomorrow as i have to pick up my wages and put in my misses account lol. PM your paypal again and i will PM address
i got my immobiliser completely removed cus i smashed the fob :( but i sent you a msg and i will see if my mate still works there. so give me your name and if she still does i will let her know your comming down and see if she can sort it out for you :)
thats one of the things i dont have and even if i did, i wouldnt have a clue how to set it up pmsl.
P.S mine is an SE so it is obd1 as far as i know ;) lol. looking at maybe just buying an mx6 and be done with the 3
@8f888011b6=timorridge:
Ok thanks for replies, are we saying it is ok as is then, as long as i secure the bonnet prop properly?
My bonnet pop sits on a nice clip on the rad fan housing :wink:
cheers again for the info.
will probably find a way of doing it. just guess it will be more of a bitch to do.
get as many diagrams of wiring etc to try and work it out and go from there
http://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/Mazda_MX3_Tensioners.aspx
next day delivery guaranteed
or try a local motor factors as they can get most parts over night
I will say one thing about the tensioners on these is that they are not a common item to go on these and very well made, not like the plastic shite they put on french cars that explode after you fit a cambelt, these are made to last, its not a guarantee that they will last forever but its not to bad to do at a later date if its not available :wink:
