Just a note to add to what Tommy D just said.
As mentioned in my last post, its better to add the cleaner and run for a bit before you do your oil change as it cleans out crap and you want that out with the old oil not in with the new. :wink:
The fuel is at a set pressure as standard.
The ecu reads the amount of air coming in and alters the duration that the fuel injector is open for.
Therefore increasing the pressure will increase the amount of fuel pumped out in that time.
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ECU's can learn and adapt to some mods you make, but they take a while to learn and only have limited scope.
e.g it can cope with an air intake and exhaust system, but put sports cams on and you will need to either get a piggyback controler, new chip, re-map old chip or go standalone.
Thats where the pressure valve thing comes in as a kind of cheap way around. But you don't need to use it until you do a serious mod that requires a significant change to the fueling.
what size rims are you running??
i could get you s set of 17z with tyres for nearly that price lol
if i was u, dont take out a loan, youll regrett it down the line
get the important stuff done first( kits aint important) i know im a fine 1 2 talk lol
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mazda-MX3-MX-3-Performance-Chrome-Exhaust_W0QQitemZ190104910820QQihZ009QQcategoryZ52640QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
this is on ebay, dont know if it will help you problem (wallet) a little
good find but thats a kl55, and not the good one chipped or not. There are two ecus that work the best on the 2.5 klze, kl31 and kl36, the 36 has better vris points as the 31 has straight power curve and the 36 peaks at 4200rpms and 5500rpms. On ebay you will also find they sell POwer chips which you need to solder yourself…..please save your money, they dont work. The JE50 VAf is only needed on ODB2 cars as they came with a different VAF.
when buying a kl31 or a kl36 you will have to remove the speed limiter by removing one of the pins or cutting one of the wires, otherwise you will find that your car will not go above 180kmph as this is the restriction on japanese cars. I got a diagram of the pin that must be removed, just send a pm :wink:
thanks ro
for all your replys ,,very helpfull ,,is there any optoin to rewire at the dizzy or what about doing the hei module thingie ,,,i have seen the instructions how to do it but this is for a 94 model ,,mines a 96 model ,,,thanks
yeah, if that doesn't work, find someone with pneumatic thingy and spray air down them, worked a treat on mine, they're more powerful than a super-soaker now!!!
Hmm good point, the KL-ZE KL-68 Throttle Body is alot different to the K8, however I did adjust the stop screw & it has been fine!!
Heh, i just moved it lol im sure it is fine, providing you did the nut up again! :shock:
Jono
no not been tested for leaks as never loses oil,the level never drops. Theguy who checked it recons its def low oil pressure as its upper and lower rattles. Tho he will test it monday with a pressure tester.
Sorry bout multiple posts admin.Wont happen again.