I noticed you fitted it pointing downwards.. I would never advise that. The flow meter is designed to operate horizontally.. Theres a spring pressing against the cone. That cone gets sucked towards the intake by the engine.
You have it faced down now, so not only the spring, but gravity and the weight of the cone itself is pressing it downwards. Doesn't really take much expertise to figure out that isn't helping the sensor..
@ee71e25cf0=EDS89:
but has someone tryed to fill up the gas with shell racing fuel 99?
its the highest we can get here in norway is 99.
**Not in my MX-3, no, but I put some in my Accord Type-R. Somehow we got from Cologne to just outside Calais on just over half a tank - and in three hours…
Incidentally, there is a myth that higher octane fuel "gives" more power. Technically it doesn't - octane is a heat stability rating (or an "anti-knock index" - and the best gas to use in your car for the most power is the lowest octane rating that gives you no knock ("ping", or "pre-ignition"). Lower than that and you lose power through fuel detonating before it reaches the combustion chamber. Higher than that and you lose power through not burning enough fuel.
If course, if you have a modern engine which is capable of adapting to the more stable fuel, you won't lose power through incomplete combustion and higher octane fuel does have a higher specific energy - which results in more power.**
hi and welcome to the sit
i recomend a 4" sportex on a v6 they sound great but if you want realy long lasting i agree with hammy go with the powerflow systems
a good sportex is about 120 new but realy easy to fit your self as it comes as a whole rear section no welding needed
with the universal ones you have to get the hangers made to fit (3 just on the box itself) and get it welded to the main system.
hope this helps
at the moment its because my girlfriends dad bought the alfa for me so i have to keep it for at least 6 months lol. dont worry i will defo be back to an mx3 very soon. :) it was more exciting to drive and had more power than the alfa and the sad thing was i didnt modify the mx 3 lol.
Thanks for that, we just chucked on the distributer and away it went, but its nice to get everythging perfectly in line
Thanks for that, will get onto it V soon :D
@749754a0df=timorridge:
Jesta - sorry I cant be much help. I'm not intending to look at the faulty aircon this year as I've got timing belt next week and hopefully if enogh spare cash, to do the arches (catch them before the rot badly in the winter) and also refurbish the wheels.
I will pick this up next year if nothing else major at MOT but I'm guessing at the least I will need a regas, clean and repipe at the front near the radiator as that is where it is leaking.
Just standing in front of the aircon system at work oh wishing my MX-3 system worked like that!
got mine working, studied the system, ran through all the potential parts to check for working state, sourced the problem, fixed it, so far holding :)
multimeter, screwdriver, piece of electrical wire, all you need
wish i could mate, i really want a project to keep me busy. got 2 weeks off soon for an operation and really need a project now that the probe has fallen through lol
ok swapped over to the old HT leads one by one and found the front right bank 6 is it, was faulty. After swapping we are running perfect again. Gonna have to send them back, which there is a long story to but cant be bothered explaining! lol
thanks for the suggestions everyone
The real key to making any engine huff properly is cams. The B engine was designed to do it, and the cams (with a bit of fiddling) work well.
Stock K cams are not so clever at it, bit with some cunning adjustment, it can be done on the cheap. You just have to work it out. :D
Progress…..
Got the engine to fire but struggling to run. Will fire then stall after adjusting the rotor (new fits multiple positions, old didn't - silly man).
A bit more fiddling - disconnected connectors to throttlehousing and airbox. Fires and runs. Although searches for idle and finally settles a bit roughly around 600 rpm.
If I open throttle or connect either electrics it cuts out. Assuming rough idle and stalling when throttle opened is more to do with over rich running.
Any thoughts - am I looking at new throttle housing and/or airbox (MAF?) or is it likely to be a dodgy O2 senser?
Does this sound familiar to any of you guys?
Cheers
cool will try that later, i removed the resonator box on the alfa and it sounded soo much better. you could actully hear the air intake working, but i guess not everyone wants the induction noise going on
There is a place not too far from me…. I plan on getting it dyno tested after I fit the new exhaust (bypassing the cat) I'll start a dyno results thread so we can compare.
not sure mate, I can take a pic, but lets put it this way, I have tried again tonight and cant get that damn nut loose. I managed to break off the condenser, and remove the smaller pipe in tact from the dryer. I think the best way forward, is for me to replace the entire lower pipe that goes from the compressor to the condenser. SO, has anyone got a set of pipes, or know a suitable DIY fix??
HELP!!!
me cars off the road, and I really want it back!